ahahahah then is like 15 minutes with a coffee 
Do you have the pins connector to avoid any cutting and soldering for the Ender 3?
Nice that you got the Taulman nylon sorted.
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I have crimps and the right crimp tool. No issues there.
And taulman 910 prints superbly. Itās so fucking strong. The trick to prevent warping is to use PVA on the bed and maintaining the same uniform bed temperature in the enclosure too i.e. 45C
Also if you ever print nylon run a cheap PTFE tubing(the ones that have inner dia slightly larger than Capricorn ) from the dry box to the bondtech. Mine has been opened for almost a week and still hasnāt absorbed moisture.
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And prints nice too!
Really nice hubs. Now it should last for a while!
I have a general nylon and will try that first, Then I will order NylonX for some new projects I am working on. I am waiting the hardened steel nozzles.
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Agreed the clone stuff from AliExpress is excellently slippery, have not compared to real Capricorn tubing since itās just too expensive
Ah, I meant to write cheap PTFE tubing. Basically the ones with slightly larger inner diameter than Capricorn to reduce friction.
Like thisā¦I bought it, friction free and good value, cheap upgrade over stock ptfe tubing
How is your warping with 910? Mine even with pva on pei wraps. I even tried pva on blue tape and the print was able to wrap dammit 
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do you have an enclosure?
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Yeah do you have an enclosure? 910 is the absolute worst for warp. Even with an enclosure on a Lulzbot mini, 110 bed, 250 nozzle, you can still get some work. In his most recent video, James showcases himself printing 910, the important notes are these:
910 is hydroscopic, so much that it can absorb moisture in under 24 hours. This will cause warp.
It needs an enclosure to keep a relatively constant air temperature around the part.
Heated bed & bed adhesion. In James Brutonās video he shows that he is using the new Lulzbot mini (I know, I am jealous too.) and in this case he used the glass bed, with a nice layer of PVA.
His prints came out perfect but I believe his dry-box for his filament and the enclosure were the major success factors. 910 is an awesome alloy, just hard to get right
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Thanks guys! Iāll check his video. I donāt have an enclosure Iāll make one.
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@DAddYE! No warping anymore. I use an enclosure and a dry box. The filament is not exposed to ambient moisture at any point, except where the extruder gear is
With PVA, what temperature are you setting for bed? Set it between 45-50 and make sure that inside the enclosure it remains the same temp too. Also start with low speed. Currently using 20 for everything. And oh, I used both inside and outside brim for my wheel hub.
Itās shrinks for sure, when it cools down, so I print it at 101.4% scaling
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yep enclosure is a must. You can also just place something plastic on top for now and get the print done.
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I was finally able to print with almost no wrap and no enclosure!
I dried the 910 in the oven at 170 for like 1hr (some people leave it for 4hr).
I put 1mm tick of pva on glass bed (pva doesnāt stick as well on pei).
I heated the bed at 60 which removed the water from the pva.
I increased the nozzle temperature to 265 because now is much more dry and at 255 wasnāt sticking enough.
Printed at 80mm/s with a 0.4 nozzle and .3 as layer height. So far pretty good.
Thanks guy for the tips!
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Even 45C will remove the water from PVA and will hold onto the bed better than at 60C because it gets softer as the temp goes up.
@DAddYE, BTW, you mean nozzle temp of 265 right?
Wow! 80mm/sec. Thatās crazy fast. Can you show us how the print looks. You should also try to smash it on the ground and see if the failure occurs along the layer lines.
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I keep the bed temp of 60ish for the first layer so the glue and the line fuse better ā¦ yeah I donāt think makes the difference
The others I either turn the bed off or leave at 40ish
Looking at the fibers separating, it doesnāt seem the layers have bonded nicely. You should print a hollow cube with 4-5 perimenters and try to break it. It will give a good indication of where the problem lies. For adjacent layer adhesion problem, I would suggest to increase flow%(cura).
BTW, everyone. Alloy 910 is available at amazon for $30 with free shipping for amazon prime. I think I paid $40 from matterhacker before.
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Iām experimenting with different speed and temperatures. Iāll try to print the cube tomorrow but I decreased a bit the speed to 60mm and now layers bond much better.
Lastly, Iāll going to buy this filament:
Itās 1.65 pounds which means itās more or less as expensive as the 910.
What you think? Worth?
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