I was really interested in this filament too, but the problem with this filament is the glass transition temp. It’s 67C whereas alloy 910 is 97C.
For practical application like wheels/gears, I don’t think 67C sounds good.
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I was pointing to the same filament since it seems way stronger then nylon 910. Didn’t know the transition temp is so low. Maybe check nylonX then or the fiberglass mixed one.
The nice thing of the poliCoPa is that us almost warping free.
I got a roll, I’ll try this weekend to print something with it.
I’m interested for enclosures and maybe battery packs, I’ll test how soft it gets at 100C. From their description seems very very little.
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of the CoPa? Yes please let us know since was my first choice too.
Nylon is fairly sensitive to being printed too fast - it reduces the time each layer has to bond to the layer underneath, and significantly affects interlayer strength. If you must print fast, then print hotter to compensate.
Some of the articles I’ve seen suggest around 40mm/s is ideal for excellent strength and detail, and exceeding that can really weaken the parts unless you can mitigate it some other way like a big nozzle with very thin layer height for extra squish, or extra high temperature or a heated enclosure.
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Yup, deceased at 50/60mm at 265 the bond seems pretty darn good.
@rey8801 yeah, got the CoPa filament. Should be here Friday.
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50/60 sounds still super fast for nylon. I though more 35/40 was the right range. Well if it works well for you better like that.
CoPa should be great
Printing on raft to reduce elephant foot at the bottom(video at end)
So even though I no longer have warping, I still have elephant footing(the base is a little bit wider than the rest) . And the layers are clearer, as if they are joined together nicely. If I was printing gears, this wouldn’t be ideal, but for wheel hubs it’s fine.
But anyways, I decided to print on a raft following this video below. Since in cura, I can’t control layer wise temperature, but even the basic raft made the elephant footing disappear. Removal was also fairly easy, however a small patch of the raft is still stuck to the bottom of my print. I think that problem would easily go away if I were to reduce the temp of the first layer of the model as suggested in the video.
1st pic: without raft
2nd pic: with raft.
I haven’t used Cura, but I know Slic3r has an anti-elephant-foot adjustment that works pretty well - basically shrinks the first layer(s) by a specified value in X and Y.
That may be good for non functional prints, but when you have holes for putting screws in and bearings, I don’t think it’s a good idea.
That’s a fair point. I haven’t tested whether it’s a pure scaling thing, or something more clever that would for example increase the size of a hole rather than decreasing it like a pure percentage scale would.
Aha! I just checked, and it’s not a pure scaling move! It embiggens interior features the same way it shrinks exterior ones. So assuming you get it dialed just right, you should have no distortions on holes, or exterior walls.
I always add a 10/15mm rift, helps as well with warping
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Yeah, there seems to be 2 metric for softness. I don’t know which one we should consider.
Polymaker Polymide vs Alloy 910
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Of course … I broke my thermistor while changing the nozzle! No idea where I can find one in SF so I’ll order one on Amazon 
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Man did you have the chance to try the CoPa or the thermistor is still broken?
I am mainly doubting on the thermal properties. The datasheet suggest to do annealing process afterwards to have a better temp resistance ans stability. Which means that basically you passed the glass transition state.
Should arrive today! As soon as I’ll get it I’ll print my enclosure
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Nylon guys, have you considered polycarbonate? When I did all the digging on filament material, I remember polycarbonate came out on top. Nylon is strong but flexy and absorbs water?
I refurbished my printer, and am getting a proper IKEA enclosure together, along with a drybox system (thanks @mishrasubhransu for the repeated postings giving me the push). Getting ready to try PC and/or nylon.
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Haha. I am glad my repeated posting changed at least one mind. But honestly, a dry box and bgm extruder is what solves 80% of the problems, direct drive rest 20%.
Regular Nylon is probably comparable or slightly worse to PC, but nylon 910 or polymaker polymide. They are class apart in strength and toughness.
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Is weedwhacker nylon beneath you guys? 
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