Yep got it. Thanks man for all the vesc trick setting.
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FUCKING RAIN! YOU BASTARD!
I guess I will just look at it more
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anyone know the weight of one full set of the elofty drives?
And the weight of 4 grey wheels only?
Thanks 
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Hello all:
I was contacted by @mishrasubhransu a few weeks ago. He felt that participants in this elofty forum might have a lot of interest in seeing a review of the Revel Kit – since the Revel Kit incorporates a similar direct drive in-line hub motor system. The difference is that the Revel Kit is a complete bolt on system. I’ve tried and failed to build a few DIY systems in the past. So I really appreciate being able to choose my own deck and bolt on a completely integrated system that includes everything - enclosure, swappable batteries, remote, ESC, Motors, Standard PU wheels, Trucks, etc.
I’ve had the Revel Kit for a month and I’ve prepared a video review. I hope you find the review informative:
I’m a big fan of the Landwheel drives. The Revel Kit is from the same company. FYI this is a customer review. I’m not affiliated with Landwheel or Revel Boards, nor to I sell or profit in any way from any type of electric skateboard. I just love electric skateboards and I really enjoy trying new ones.
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Finally received the replacement axle to fix my DD. While I’m at it, I opened up the motor as much as I’m comfortable with. I think this is as much as anyone has disassembled this Lofty DirectDrive so I will document all the parts for your future maintenance.
Replacement Axle. Not sure if there’s a difference. Kenna told me the replacement is stronger but she still haven’t tell me how it’s stronger yet.
The hanger: 14mm with a squared end for mounting the motor, step down to 10mmm where motor sits on, step down to 8mm for wheels. It’s casted and then has a pin on the side to prevent the axles of coming loose?? The hanger also has a recess for the extruded motor socket.
The Motor has a extruded square socket sticking out, which prevent the stator from spinning.
Then a spacer and a nut threads onto the 10mm portion of the axle to secure the motor onto the hanger. In order to reach to this nut. You need to take the wheel adapter off.
Next, onto taking apart the motor. There are 3 screws on the front holding a thin teeth plate that secures the motor sleeve. Once that’s off, it reveals 3 countersunk screws that holds the motor front plate onto the can cylinder.
We can now take the motor sleeve off. The actual can diameter is about 68mm.
On the rear, there are 6 screws counterbore into the rear motor assembly. Taking those out and pulling the rear end out recess the internal of the motor. 20 magnets, 18 stator poles. The phase wires are solder to the sensor board PCB and then another wire to the other side.
Removing the 3 screws in the front allows you to pull the cylinder right off.
a rough measurement with a caliper shows that the magnets are about 35mm long. The stator is 58x35mm. I think this stator is pretty well built, protective sheet between the winding and the stator core all around. Winding isn’t epoxied but it’s packed really tight and full.
Now I have to put everything together.
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Thank you for sharing. This is a very useful document.
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These look pretty nice inside! Good stuff
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Does anyone have a combination with Boa Constrictor 100mm?
I got it today.
The Kegel adapter is slightly offset from the wheel core and is very difficult to insert. Does anyone have the same experience?
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I wish I had those wheels 
That’s too bad. I plan to shave the wheel adapter spokes with a file. 
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You can spin the motor and take a file at it.
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So I recieved my DD a while back, but only now the torqueboard whleels and the pneumatic ones. On the first ride I noticed the motors vibrate quite a bit. On further inspection the kegel adapters are mounted off-center. I am pretty pissed, since the screws are glued in aparently (have not tried to screw it apart). I wrote to Kenna but what can she even do? Ether I go buy a hot air gun and try my luck or try to send them back for refund.
Does anyone know a fool pfoof method to fix this issue? If one screw breakes I don’t have any power tools to get them out. I even thought about widening the holes of the wheels maybe… Idk
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They are loctite in not glue. I used an impact drive and a PH1 bit. Comes off easily without stripping. It’s blue loctite so you don’t need hot air but it would help and make it easier.
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Heat screw with a $2 torch from your local deli/7-11. Heat it up until it’s too hot to touch.
Nice wheels, where did you find it or buy it for elofty motors ? Thanks
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Welcome, bro. Matched your level from Builder’s.
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