That looks like a cool deck
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Riddle me this https://youtu.be/EhaskYrlnCA
Never did this with the 97s on but with the TB110’s it does this also when riding and you jam on the power. Exactly the same settings as before.
Bat 45/-20
Motor 60/-60
But if I change the motor to 40/-60 it goes away. Well it almost goes away, occasionally there is a little ‘brrrrruuugggh’ for a split second before everything is normal.
Running dual focbox’s in FOC
Its learnt how to play drum and bass, leave it be 
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A little Dillinja is always welcome. I really wish I got an fault code or something instead.
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Increase your sensorless erpm to 10000
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I just tried that and BOOM fixed it. Thanks!
it better not rain tomorrow
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I set it to 1000erpm as you said and then left for Canada . When I am back end of the week I will try it out. Anyhow I don’t have this problem with tb110mm it was only with 6inch wheels on hard accellaration.
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Yeh I meant 10000. No in my case I don’t have problem with tb110mm, as I said only AT.
I tried the setting for an extended ride today and as @mishrasubhransu said my ESC 's temperature decreased. I still can not say reliably that the drives got more efficient, but will know more tonight.
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Haha. I didn’t mean that you need to use the exact same wheel to have problem. Clearly you have a different motor so the effect will happen at a different wheel mass/rotational inertia. The important part is demanding higher torque suddenly in unsensored mode causes the slippage between stator field and rotor field. Hence that sound. Side effect also includes overheating of motors and ESC.
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Yep got it. Thanks man for all the vesc trick setting.
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FUCKING RAIN! YOU BASTARD!
I guess I will just look at it more
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anyone know the weight of one full set of the elofty drives?
And the weight of 4 grey wheels only?
Thanks 
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Hello all:
I was contacted by @mishrasubhransu a few weeks ago. He felt that participants in this elofty forum might have a lot of interest in seeing a review of the Revel Kit – since the Revel Kit incorporates a similar direct drive in-line hub motor system. The difference is that the Revel Kit is a complete bolt on system. I’ve tried and failed to build a few DIY systems in the past. So I really appreciate being able to choose my own deck and bolt on a completely integrated system that includes everything - enclosure, swappable batteries, remote, ESC, Motors, Standard PU wheels, Trucks, etc.
I’ve had the Revel Kit for a month and I’ve prepared a video review. I hope you find the review informative:
I’m a big fan of the Landwheel drives. The Revel Kit is from the same company. FYI this is a customer review. I’m not affiliated with Landwheel or Revel Boards, nor to I sell or profit in any way from any type of electric skateboard. I just love electric skateboards and I really enjoy trying new ones.
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Finally received the replacement axle to fix my DD. While I’m at it, I opened up the motor as much as I’m comfortable with. I think this is as much as anyone has disassembled this Lofty DirectDrive so I will document all the parts for your future maintenance.
Replacement Axle. Not sure if there’s a difference. Kenna told me the replacement is stronger but she still haven’t tell me how it’s stronger yet.
The hanger: 14mm with a squared end for mounting the motor, step down to 10mmm where motor sits on, step down to 8mm for wheels. It’s casted and then has a pin on the side to prevent the axles of coming loose?? The hanger also has a recess for the extruded motor socket.
The Motor has a extruded square socket sticking out, which prevent the stator from spinning.
Then a spacer and a nut threads onto the 10mm portion of the axle to secure the motor onto the hanger. In order to reach to this nut. You need to take the wheel adapter off.
Next, onto taking apart the motor. There are 3 screws on the front holding a thin teeth plate that secures the motor sleeve. Once that’s off, it reveals 3 countersunk screws that holds the motor front plate onto the can cylinder.
We can now take the motor sleeve off. The actual can diameter is about 68mm.
On the rear, there are 6 screws counterbore into the rear motor assembly. Taking those out and pulling the rear end out recess the internal of the motor. 20 magnets, 18 stator poles. The phase wires are solder to the sensor board PCB and then another wire to the other side.
Removing the 3 screws in the front allows you to pull the cylinder right off.
a rough measurement with a caliper shows that the magnets are about 35mm long. The stator is 58x35mm. I think this stator is pretty well built, protective sheet between the winding and the stator core all around. Winding isn’t epoxied but it’s packed really tight and full.
Now I have to put everything together.
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