Earthwing Supermodel | SS 12S5P P42A | MakerX DV6 | 2WD 6384 belt drive | Onsra 115mm wheels | BN270

Hello everyone! I want to introduce my first build. It has a few revisions, not the fanciest build, but overall I am very happy with what I could achieve as a 16-17-18 year old with limited funds… Yes this build has not reached a finished state for a long time.



This revision of the board was made in circa August - November 2020. It didn’t last long.

Landyachtz Switchblade 40 deck

Wanted to try out a drop down deck, fell in love with the shape. Used it on my pushboard for a while, at this time it got electrified.

Single stack 12S5P P42A with LLT smart BMS

12S5P P42A, 907Wh, 150A current. It’s a beast but it’s also huge. Built by @Acido

DIY fiberglass enclosure

Turned out pretty badly. Started cracking as soon as I mounted it. I’ve ridden it for a bit and this was not my biggest issue…

2x Cheap FOCer v2 ESCs

My plan with these was that I use them for a while to get my by on 12S while I can afford something better… Things did not went according to plan to say the least. Maybe because I was a noob, maybe for other reasons, I think I bricked one of them during setup, and I broke a capacitor off of the one during the testride… I also broke off the USB ports… I didn’t really bother trying to fix them since I actually learned how to use VESC tool… Looking back now I might be able to fix them but I just don’t have the time… Might get back to them some day. Anyways, they lasted about 2km for me… With my crappy mounting and all that. They are probably a lot better if you treat them the way you should treat an ESC…
Here they are in the ugly top mounted box that I made for them.

Flipsky VX1 remote

Custom remote from @Anubis, back in summer 2020 I could order them with a few color options. Opted for red and black, the red aspects are a bit subtle and it looks super nice.
I also added magnetic charging to the remote. Credit to an old @Lee_Wright video for this
The remote I got originally was dead, but Anubis sorted me out, I absolutely recommend buying from him, great customer service!


Originally I purchased an 8A yzpower charger from nexusboards, however it had huge sparks when plugging it into the wall. In the end, in circa 2021 summer, I ended up getting a 4A yzpower from nexusboards and while that one also sparks in my outlet along with pretty much every esk8 charger I own, the spark is much less… frightening.

The drivetrain - crappy hubs, trucks, and wheels from a wowgo 2S

Not much to say, other than they are crappy and I only planned to use them temporarily. They detect at 28A in VESC tool but they get super hot…

Shredlights SL200 front light set

Pretty much a “meh” at best.






Then came the second revision! I started ordering parts for this in November 2020. This phase lasted until around July 2021.
Most parts have changed. Only the remote, the battery, and the charger stayed (for now at least). This is already getting closer to a decent build.

Parts list
  • MakerX DV6 ESC, love it, stays relatively cool and performs well, tested up to 100A.
  • Earthwing Supermodel 41 deck. I actually prefer the switchblade, but I got an unbeatable deal from @Halbj613 for this with a Bigben enclosure, and I couldn’t trust the enclosure i made for the switchblade. A switchblade eboosted enclosure would have been way out of budget.
  • Onsra 115 rubber wheels. They feel exceptionally comfortable and grippy for their size, but they eat through the battery like there is no tomorrow. 20Wh/km consumption is not unseen on harder rides, although if I keep it super tame I can stay at around 8Wh/km. With my average riding style I stay around 14Wh/km.
  • Caliber II 50 degree trucks, 10 inch, with aftermarket Venom HPF bushings. 93A barrel boardside both front and rear, 87A barrel front roadside, 90A barrel rear roadside. Tightened quite a bit. Pretty stable setup, took it up to about 60-62 km/h (only logged 57 km/h but I was going faster than that a few times before). Doesn’t turn much.
  • Flipsky 6384 battlehardened 140KV motor and 20T pulley. Pretty good motor, handles single drive suprisingly well. But, as with any high speed single drive setup, getting the motor to heat up is not too hard in the summer.
  • 12S5P P42A battery, nothing changed here
  • Same VX1 remote still, though I did have like 2 disconnects. Funny thing is that they both happened in the middle of nowhere, in the exact same place, when I took a 5 minute break there.
  • Motor mount, belts, 44T kegel pulley (bolt on & pressfit, run in bolt-on config) are from Dickyho. Also got the X brackets from him. Highly recommended.
  • Flipsky BT module

Safety gear

It was at this point in time that I also bought a ton of safety gear - I already had the helmet before, no worries there. It is absolutely needed to gear up well for 60km/h runs.

I wear the following gear:

  • Oneal Backflip RL2 helmet (full face required for this board)
  • Sunglasses or ski goggles depending on wheather
  • Loaded Advanced Freeride slide gloves, moved one puck down a bit to have place to hold the remote
  • TSG SK8 DHP knee pads
  • cheapo elbow pads, will probably upgrade later but good enough for now



The third revision was finished in 2022 June, took about an year as I was super busy during my last year at high school. Basically the TLDR is I hugely improved the truck feel and converted to dual drive. Also cleaned up the rear enclosure a bit, although still looks messy.


Updates done
  • Dual drive is the main thing. Now rocking 2x Flipsky Battlehardened 6384 140KV motors, still same wheels (115mm Onsra) and same gearing (20:44). Dickyho mounts with a bash guard. Using BN270 hangers.

  • Truck feel was very important to me. I am coming from some cast Ronin trucks, which feel way nicer than caliber 2 to ride. Thankfully I managed to get close enough with truck feel with the BN270 hangers. Ronins use tall bushings, are 42.5 degrees, have a slop stopping system, an open bushing seat, and a lot of rake.

  • I am using a 44 degree caliber 3 baseplate up front, and a 44 degree caliber 3 baseplate in the rear dewedged by 14 degrees, so 30 degree effective angle. The reason why I am using caliber 3 plates, is that I can use tall bushings boardside. To be able to use tall bushings roadside too, I needed to swap to longer kingpins. I bought Skoa kingpins, which are a not ideal because they are slightly too long. But hey, at least they fit 2x tall bushings.

  • In place of the Ronin’s slop stopping system (queen pin / support pin) I am using Riot Plugs - a slop stopping bushing that goes in between of the two regular bushings. It’s the green thing on the picture below. Bought it in 90A, middle ground kinda because I had no idea which duro I need. As visible on picture, I also took a dremel to my front BN270 hanger to open up the roadside bushing seat slightly more (gave it a chamfer).

  • As for bushings, I choose Riptides. On the rear truck I am running Krank formula on both bushings. 96A tall fatcone bushing boardside with a flat washer, 93A tall barrel roadside with a cupped but not super tight washer. For the front I am using the APS formula which is more lively, 90A tall barrel boardside, 85A tall barrel roadside. Both with cupped washers, though the roadside washer is not super tight.

  • I get a lot of lean with this setup and can still turn tightly. Which is needed, as i am taking this board to the Onsra open race which takes place on the 2nd of July (2022) in Germany.

  • Leaving the ugly thing last. The ESC enclosure still isn’t nowhere near elegant. At least it’s not a chopped up furniture though. The reason why I gone for this enclosure is that I wanted to make it swappable between my (TBD) mountainboard and this board in about 15 minutes. 4 screws and nuts, connectors, programming.

  • The ESC enclosure has a built in Davega - the OG davega running open source firmware, this is running Roxie OS. However, this feature made it way taller than it should be.

  • Running panel mounted connectors for modularity. Sensors are not yet panel mounted, but I will convert those to panel mounted MR30 or MT30 connectors too.

  • Also the ESC enclosure has a nice handle cut from aluminium that also handles as a huge heatsink. Though the board is super heavy, even just pulling it by the handle is tiring.

  • On the front and the rear, the alu plates allow attaching half bindings, and even without bindings they serve as footstops.

In the future I plan to get a real Davega X, and make a slimmer ESC enclosure. Also might glass and even skin the deck. A more trustworthy remote would also be nice.


Are those CheapFOCer2 version 0.9 or version 1.0?


They are v0.9 from a groupbuy made by doomy

1 Like

Oh right an update on the receiver I owe you, It got returned to me yesterday, so I just sent a complete remote which is already on its way.


Oh, thats a little more waiting. Well, thanks for trying everything to fix my issue :slight_smile:


A little update…

I screwed the battery enclosure on using washers below every nut. Didn’t quite work out well.



As you can see, the enclosure cracked in a few places. The problem was that I couldn’t get the sides the right angle when I did the enclosure. Also my gasket is a thick and quite hard neoprene foam, I guess that didn’t help either. A D shaped rubber gasket would have been better. So it’s now guaranteed that I will remake this enclosure. For now, I will see how well it holds up, I would like to be able to use it until spring… I want to remake it outside my house, but that would require 20C plus ambient temperature. I will be checking regularly whether the cracks get worse. For now I will fill the cracks with silicone.

I have also noticed that my front axles are a little bit bent.

I think it’s still safe to ride it for a while, but I will have to check it from time to time. (I don’t want to buy new trucks right now.)

And lastly, I have been thinking about changing my front wheels to 115mm rubber wheels from Onsra. I have them on a pushboard currently, but pushing them is like a workout. The rolling resistance is so much more, I have to push even when going down the hill where I have been studying and practising slides on 70mm thanes.

So the benefits of this change would be:

  • More clearance for the enclosure (currently I have about 4.6-4.8 cm)
  • Less vibrations for the board (less chance something will go wrong I guess)
  • Slightly more stable ride (?) The front would be higher than the back so it would act like a wedge in the front and a dewedge in the back, right?
  • Tons of more grip in the front
  • Easier pushing on my pushboard :rofl:

And the negatives:

  • Less range - this is not a big deal for me, my legs are the limiting factor as far as range goes, because of the hub motors.
  • Higher height in the front, and I like being close to the ground.
  • Since the 115mm wheels are offset not centerset like these abec clones in the front, the bending might get worse. And as I said, I don’t want to buy a truck right now.

Also do you have any thoughts on what drivetrain i should be saving up for? Boardnamics gears with 6374s or elofty DD? I kinda like the idea of trying out a truck thats not RKP, but I also want to be able to easily reach 50kph uphill… I am torn between these two options. Both have their pros and cons. Btw I think I will have enough money to do the upgrade either in spring or in the summer. At least I hope so. If my current motors will need to be replaced before that, I think I will have to go with the cheaper option of the two however.

1 Like

Try epoxy instead


Alright, thanks! Than I will also sand the paint down near the cracks so it can stick better

Next update! The VX1 from @Anubis is here and it works :smiley: So I did a test ride. Lets say things did not went according to plan :rofl:

  • So, while setting up the VESCs, once the canbus stopped working. It didn’t work for a few hours, and then I changed nothing but it worked for 30 seconds… It doesn’t work now though. I suspect that the cable could be broken, so I will replace the cable, but I would appreciate any suggestion you have regarding this.
    I am usually getting this error.

  • I still didn’t configure HFI. Since then I found the video from Deodand, so I will try again after I get the canbus and USB issues sorted.

  • Therefore I did the test ride as a single drive sensorless board, notes to myself: don’t have the motor on the toeside. Heelside is better.

  • 2km in the test I heard excessive vibration from the ESC box. It appears that Velcro™ is NOT sufficent to hold the ESCs in place. The rattling was the ESCs coming loose. And a capacitor broke off. The remainders of the legs are very short so it’s not likely I will be able to salvage it. I will try my best, but most likely I will have to buy a new capacitor.

  • I got a few disconnects on the remote. But I suspect it might have been to the VESC rattling inside an aluminum enclosure? I am not sure. Also mounting the receiver in a metal enclosure probably wasn’t the brightest idea. I will have to figure something out. No money for a Hoyt Puck though.

  • 28A per motor is not much torque in single drive. However the motors got frikkin hot after only 2km. I could barely touch them and ambient temp was only about 0°C. I will try out 14A per motor once I fixes the issue that come up. With the 28A current i could achieve 36kph on flat with battery about 41V and 28 kph on a slight uphill. In steep places it had next to zero torque due to low speed. I think a correctly setup HFI should help with this.

Also more things to fix:

  • One USB broke off
  • Other USB didn’t work from the get-go
  • I still don’t have bluetooth (I have a HM-10 module, and I would like to add support to the firmware like in this guide but it’s hard for me to find time to do it)
  • I still have to figure out how to mount the ESCs. Probably screws are my best bet

You need bluetooth ASAP

Also, not HM-10. Try nrf51822


I will buy an NRF module, but shipping is gonna take a while. When I bought the HM-10 I thought NRF modules are all 20$ plus, but they are only slightly more expensive on ali than the HM-10 lol

One USB port is easy to fix (the one that broke off) but I am not so sure about the other one that was broken from the start. That one is physically good. Maybe the firmware is problematic, I have no idea.

Btw do you have any idea about the canbus problem?

1 Like

Getting a remote with an external antenna would be smart. Or mounting your receiver in a external enclosure of some sort that isn’t metal. Yeah, Hoyt Puck is kinda the only thing that has a chance in that scenario, if even.

1 Like

I will mount the receiver in a plastic box on top of the metal esc enclosure. I think that’s my cheapest option

Somewhat of an update:

  • I gave up fixing these VESCs. I’ve come to the decision that I am better off buying a new dual VESC at 200-250$ shipped. Suggestions are welcome! Currently I have been thinking to go with the makerx DV6 and the spintend. I have some serious hills, so I need a ton of power to not overheat them (at least in the future when I will have new motors).
  • Also thinking of buying a new drivetrain, I am considering SK3 motors and maaaybe a boardnamics gear drive when it becomes available from anubis. The thing is I would also need 270 hangers with these. Not good for my budget… I am also considering to go with belt drive SK3 dickyho mount and dickyho pulleys, plus a single 220 hanger (might be broke for two, but will upgrade later haha) EDIT: can’t afford either option right now, I need to save up more, gonna take time. However, a dual gear drive came up only 35€ more than dual belts :astonished: I will definietly go with gears when I have the money.

So the question is which VESC would you go with for 12S 250$ shipped?

makerx dv6 as u’ve already said, its solid


What wheels would you be using? You might get wheelbite with Boardnamics trucks and the Switchblade

1 Like

Onsra 115mm rubber. They are offset wheels so that helps a bit. 270 would clear the deck. I would use regular caliber baseplates and that also helps a bit compared to boardnamics baseplates.
I am also buying an earthwing supermodel drop, so if this doesn’t work out I can switch the deck to that. If this deck would fit the wheels I will use the other as a pushboard

1 Like

Another vote for DV6, I dont build higher than 12s for esk8.


Thanks for helping me decide to go with Makerx! I just ordered a DV6 :slight_smile: I hope it won’t get caught by customs, 27% VAT absolutely would suck :sweat_smile:

All of mine have gone through the Netherlands for some reason… haven’t paid a single ¢ for customs so far :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: Hopefully they take the same route for you too