Oh yes…I almost forgot…my steampunk caster damper.
Again modified a worn Yanmar diesel pump, it just helps me go in a strait line🥰
2 Likes
1 Like
But I’m glad you asked the question Mr. P.Tilly, Im on my second build, so I too would like a parts list and where is the best place to buy.
Hardware mostly like:
Motors hub or belt drive.
Control board and remote.
Sliprings, lazy susan or wind gen type.
Battry packs…well I think we just make them up.
I think a gear motor and belt is better, but Im going for a hub motor as for design and simplicity. Once you have your caster fork and bearing made, mount the motor, and its kindve plug and play. But thats just me.
Slipring, Im hopefully going to source a wind gen type.
Im going to try and do it better this time, not so rural😁.
But hopefully I can get some help from here.
I do understand most of this stuff has been done and gone over already above here somewhere, but it would be nice for an update, as ideas get better abd prices change.
Thank you all in advance.
Jon
1 Like
also do you know how I could mount a motor onto a wheel because I don’t have access to a 3d printer and I’m having truble finding out how mount the motor on the right way
thanks
1 Like
I have to be honest for a long time I thought of using the Razor Rush, now called the deux, but i contacted Razor Usa and was told they only are selling in the USA so I was screwed. If you dont have a 3d printer…I think if you enjoy DIY try hard to get one…it definatly helps you, and now they are cheap…otherwise I reckon as bolt off bolt on, the ripstik “might” work but dont buy the old one, the caster does not swivel…make sure you get the one that swivels otherwise it wont work and also the angle it runs at would need looking into…thats my 10 cents but dont waste your money if you cant find it dirt cheap. also wait for more replys on this forum.
Honestly I think the ideal solution for a finished product is aftermarket castor mods for the Freebord 5 base.
With belt drive/hub and boardnamics-esque (perferable a smaller wheel gear version intended for 50xx motor) gearbox drive options.
Then power delivery options best being mercury slip rings poking into your feet through the deck.
Total cost on that probably near $900. I guess that could include a deck and edge wheels/trucks but add batteries + ESC probably nearer $1100.
Center suspension caster wheel can be made for crazy dirt cheap. Probably under $200 mechanically and $360 with battery, charger and remote.
1 Like
yeah so cheap Freebored center wheel modules
ignore the funky setup on the end, imagine that more like a normal 5-X.
fitting bearings for a diy ring bearing with the motor sticking out that side of the gearbox is a pain but if the motor is flipped you need a huge motor gear to fit a wheel larger than the M1 gearbox wheel bearing.
speaking of that exact issue Freebord boro 72mm sized wheels would not work with a M1 gearbox, but the model you see could fit a 100mm+ sized wheel to remedy the ground clearance somewhat.
As stated above a small gearbox meant for 50xx motors would be ideal.
1 Like
Do you know of any updates of the drftboard drive kit? 
I think if I try to build this myself I will have to buy every part 5 times till it works out lol
1 Like
Idk I think the demand for Freebords is kinda weird with the bad supply. So electric upgrades for those is not seeing it’s best time to be launched.
There are definitely cool ideas that weren’t even showed off yet, what we spoke about last was how to best integrate a electrical connection through a modded Freebord castor base (custom cam to be specific). Basically what I was talking about being the ideal design for the goals we all wish for, an amazing performing and reliable design.
1 Like
And there we have it… reality is a bitch isn’t she😭 for me the cost is out of reach…so I guess it’s back to me and I designs cheap scratch patch shit…but hey it’s all about having fun…rite…well maybe not.
1 Like
Somebody asked if a Razor Electric Ripstik board could not be used to make an E freebord, not sure why, but I can’t see that post anymore.
I had a look at the new video for the Razor Rush/Deux Ripstik …is there any reason why the electric caster wheel on that board will not work on a E-Freeboard?
1 Like
if you combined it with the idea I had for putting gears or a rotation sensor and linking that to a cylindrical battery and esc module in the center of the board, making some sort of overcomplicated slip ring delete.
yes
Trying to get enough suspension travel with a 5in wheel to make it so the bearing can be moved up within the rails, not quite there yet. I guess I could move the edge wheels and castors up but carving out more of the bumpers unless some tiny castor wheels used.
Throwback to these bearings
that could be used instead of a diy lazy susan bearing.
you can see here where the motor sticking out makes it need to be above the bearing. I suppose the gearbox could be angled and tucked below therefore a much smaller diameter bearing used, also lowering COG.
I want to figure out the bearing and gearbox mounting on this version then adapt those parts to the belt drive version using a sbx or diy maybe jmk wheel.
Interesting if two suspension castors in the center could ride fine without the outer castors.
For the idea I mentioned long ago about having a pull to drop center caster it would be cool to put the remote into that part you pull on. Could have a slip ring in that handle or it could have the slip ring on the caster.
clearance issues pt2, with the wheel moved farther away from the bearing the suspension could pivot around the motor side of the gearbox. Much simpler to do that than the linear suspension needed with how I showed before.
Prob an undue compromise but to get a shorter motor it could maybe be reduced to a 4240 sized motor.
here would be the speeds and stuff with a 2.78:1 gearbox and 5in wheel.
Okay…so I did not really want to post this…but in the interest of helping others, I will…so my first board was a modified mbs mountainboard. …now I moved on and went for a aluminium frame board, kindve like a one wheel diy set up, ally frame with ply wood in the middle …oh…my …word…it has to be the ugliest thing I have ever made…maybe its just me, and believe me I really enjoy working with both materials,…uh uh…seriously for me, Im going to try and modify a board that has been properly made.,…, freebord or somthing …what ever man…Im going to burn this ugly thing… …hope this helps someone.
Jon
1 Like
Might have never posted this, I wanted to see the smallest and maybe cheapest caster I could design.
It uses old rusted bearings from esk8 boards. 12x28 and 10x22. It has special geometry seen here to perfectly fit on the ends of the 5-X.
The other use I wanted to test it in could use it being even lower and smaller, and thinking about it even more to maximize the low factor there are two options.
That use case is onewheel sliders/fangs of sorts.
This is a hold my beer kind of post.
Today I was thinking about possible substitutes for the standard slipring system… and I came up with this idea:
Why not use bearings filled with conductive grease for the contacts?
In the picture you can see a standard 608 with some factory grease in it measuring a 0.1 Ohm resistance between the inner and the outer race. With some electrically conductive grease this resistance can further be decreased. Or maybe even just by using larger bearings with more contacts and better tolerances.
Because of the load on such a bearing design would be almost entirely axial the way I imagine it, thrust bearings would need to be used. Maybe some heavy duty spherical roller thrust bearings would be ideal because there are some shock loads, but I am not a mechanical engineer so idk. The bearing’s axial load rating would need to bear the riders weight though. And idk if these kind of bearings exist in a sealed design. Or maybe with the pressure once a rider stands on the board, the connection would be good enough without special electrically conductive grease?
The way I imagine the system working, is by having multiple concentric bearings of different sizes, and the same amount of aluminium bearing holders for both boardside and roadside that matches the number of bearings. These would need to be electrically insulated from each other by maybe some some plastic piece thats pressed inbetween them.
I’ll try to make a rough bearing holder 3D design once the idea settles in my head a bit more, just to get the it across better. I still haven’t made my mind up completely about how to do the bearing holders.
2 Likes
I’ve seen this discussed when researching DIY slip rings. The problem is they will spark and get worn down by the electricity. While it might work for a time it would be much harder to service then the Summerboard style slip rings.
Would be awesome to combine the caster bearing with the slip ring itself if it did work well!
1 Like