I have a piece of wood with a few different connectors epoxied to it. Like a universal stand of sorts
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Thanks for bringing this up, as this will definitely be necessary for using this MR69. Ill be sure to include that in the product information when I get to that point.
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It also means you’d be better off having a few more than you’re needing laying around. With Amass — that are sold in bags of ten pair et cetera — that doesn’t seem to be an issue. But I would consider selling them in minimum quantities of more than one or two pair, specifically for that reason.
If you buy two pair, it’s more difficult to do things like that, than if you buy a bag of ten pair. You’ve always got some singles laying around to assist in soldering. Five or seven pair might be an even better choice 
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what about resin printing these? There are types of resin that are heat resistant. Also u can get better tolerances for fitment of these connectors.
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Have any suggestions? I’ve actually been looking again for some that actually does what it says. I’ve tried two of the highly recommended stuff and it seems more brittle than the stock type resins.
Would be awesome to find some that actually holds up.
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Not particularly. I just got a FDM printer. Maybe some of the SLA/ DLP printer boys on here can help?
Formlabs has some expensive heat resisstant resin though: https://formlabs.com/store/materials/high-temp-resin/
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Definitely agree here. Its always a royal pain in the ass trying to solder on my last male XT90 when I dont have a female lying around to plug it into.
That said, I’m still no where near being able to figure out how much these will cost. Its really going to depend on how much time it takes me to assemble each one. If I cant get the price on these down to single digits per pair, then I really doubt a bag of 5 or 7 pairs is going to sell very well if it is more than $50. I would love to get there, but we will see.
I have a resin printer that the Robot very generously foisted upon me. I have yet to actually make it work though. Thoon.
That $200 a liter is pretty cost prohibitive.
I switched to a 0.25mm nozzle on my prusa and I am able to get much better resolution on these now (at the cost of print time). Because of that I redesigned them again trying to see how small I can get the connector while still keeping enough distance between the pins.
This is the result:
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Nice!. Clean as a whistle. I like it!!
Since you currently plat to 3dp this, and almost any plastic cannot stand soldering, it is quite dangerous, that decreasing distance between pins can lead to accidental short or loose bullet.
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That is definitely being taken into consideration for production. I have been comparing the heat deflection temperature and glass transition temperatures of lots of different types of plastics for these connectors.
Rest assured that the final production models will be made of a material that will be well suited to this application, as well as being well tested by myself and other trusted community members (assuming I can find any willing to try these out 
)
Just a quick reminder to everyone here on esk8 news that my main thread about these MR69 connectors lives on the FreeSK8 Forums, and can be found here:
Lots of great discussion about these concerns and many more can be found there 
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Finally landed on a model I like enough to fully populate one, and it actually works!
Had a couple whoopsies with the soldering iron, as well as tearing a big chunk out of the plastic trying to pull them apart (9 pins is a LOT of friction haha) but im very happy with this initial test.
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Dielectric grease?
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Honestly I think the friction is a blessing in disguise. In our high-vibration environment we want really solid connectors that are not going to vibrate apart.
I mangled the connector because I had to grip it with forceps to pull it apart, because in my desire to trim down the geometry as much as possible, i didnt leave any room to actually grip the connector. A fully soldered connector wont have that problem.
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Oh I meant for your tests
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Ah. Yeah thats not a bad idea
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Looks awesome, what filament did you use?
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I have a thought, if you had a nub sticking off the male part —
…then once they are plugged together you could cable-tie them together, even with the male side (with the pins) epoxied through an enclosure. Then you could ride assured they will not vibrate apart. I haven’t had any MR60 vibrate apart yet, but I’m sure it’s only a matter of time.
and if ya didn’t want to do that you can simply clip off the piece sticking out with wire clippers
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tiny brass insert!
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Looks great. I would suggest to use 0.12 or 0.08mm layer height. To make it smoother.
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