I think it’s better to bring this 3 link vs duality discussion in here and not derail @AlexB 's sale thread too much 
Axle height adjustments you are correct about being easier while talking about srb 3 links. On newbee you cannot adjust that. My way of adjusting that on the Dualities was getting a mountainboard deck with long enough tails (tomiboi hellhound, but I would prefer slightly longer tails still) and redrilling truck mounting holes so I have the correct height, although that does affect wheelbase as well of course. Steering angle, well it’s pretty easy to CAD up and print your own angled risers with any angle you want. Though I agree these two adjustment possibilities are better on srb 3 links.
The main thing though where Dualities win out adjustment by miles is bushing formulas. Riptide krank is a formula that is in my opinion best suited where you are working around clearance issues, so the rebound is sort of another way to let you know how much more you got in the trucks.
On an ideal setup for me especially for racing the first clearance issue is when you completely max out the truck’s articulation. I run my front duality with 33 degree max articulation without clearance issues. And that’s so far into the lean that I just don’t need the rebound’s extra signal to know I am about to hit it. To actually be able to get so far into the lean without turning too much I am running low truck angles, 25/10.
So with an axle height like that - center of axle less than 8-10mm below standing platform.
That’s how 33 degree looks on deflated 165mm / 6.5" tires unloaded.
5mm clearance below the deck!!!
A V5 would be scratching it’s belly before this much deck lean.
Bushing wise in rebound from lowest to highest the options I tried are Riptide WFB < Riptide APS < Venom HPF < Riptide Krank. HPF only in other trucks though.
Lower rebound setups allow you to run higher duro bushings for a more stable center, and therefore better straight line stability, but they stiffen up much less near the end of lean, so even with higher duro and therefore more stability in the center you can still turn just as well or in some cases even better.
Let’s demonstrate that with my journey through Krank to APS to WFB now. In every case I am talking about I have a tall barrel front tall chubby rear bushing shape. High rebound Krank 93A feels like it’s on the stiffer side for me deep into the lean, remember I allow more articulation than standard so I experience the stiffening up even more. In order to not stiffen up too much I need less preload. Lower duro bushing + less preload = less stable center. I did not ran this config on the road in dualities though only stood on it stationary. It wasn’t exactly what I was after and already had the APS on hand so just from my previous experience krank vs aps decided on aps.
Then there’s medium rebound APS which I ran at 92.5A and a lot of preload so I had a similar center. It felt like a medium soft setup overall, but definitely appropriate for my weight. It didn’t stiffen up as significantly late into the lean so it made tight turns easier with zero downside compared to krank for stability. It’s my choice of setup for a board built exclusively for carving, the rebound is on point for that. Although when I went from 30/15 to 25/10 and the ratio of steering front to back changed, I had to put in a single krank 93A into the rear because the front felt stiffer then the back. A better solution would have been APS 95A for at least one of the rear bushings, but I didn’t have that on hand. I ran this for a race before I managed to order bushings though, and there I got convinced to give WFB a try at higher duro, so I jumped into WFB right away. And oh boy did that change everything.
So WFB is the lowest rebound bushing that I know of out of all brands. I only ordered the highest duro option for the rear, 95.5A, and the two highest options for the front to give a chance for fine tuning. Well, I ended up running 95.5A all around with a ton of preload rear and medium preload front. The center immediately felt much more stable. But the turns got CRAZY. My first turn on track I managed to stand on two wheels and nearly fell because it was so little rebound that my APS muscle memory went way overboard and maxed out truck articulation with zero effort. I can basically max out my 33 degree front truck articulation with hand it’s so loose. Turns are completely effortless, it’s the most agile setup on track I have ever been on assuming I can get that deck to lean in (needs a tiny bit of speed and grippy tires to really work it’s magic) and the most stable setup as well. As is, 95.5A is still quite soft for my weight but it still ended up my favourite setup that I tried. I would definitely want to try higher duro though.
Not being stuck on Riptide krank as I would be on SRB 3 links is a huge thing for me personally.
Now to be clear. I am not saying Riptide Krank doesn’t have it’s space. For many setups and riding styles it’s a really good choice. But for my style on a raceboard, I have a strong preference towards low rebound.
Then of course the point of lower price, less maintenance and higher durability still stands.
And there’s one more huge advantage, it’s working on them. Just everything is so much more simple and easy, no need to screw around with rod length and threading everything onto the main axle and all that. A bushing swap is less than 5 minutes, anyone who swapped bushings before on 3 links will know that on those if you know what you are doing it’s still at least an hour but if it’s your first time it can easily take half a day.