Dual VESC or 2xVesc

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics Esk8 Mechanics
#21

hmm ok, so how much speed will I get out of that motor?

#22

Speed depends on the motor kv, your battery voltage, gearing, and wheel size. There’s a link to a esk8 calculator at the header of this web-site that you can use to experiment with different values and see what you’d get :slight_smile:

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#23

Ok I see, I got about 27 mph loaded. So you recommend running at 30A? Will I get more range?

#24

The current you run your motors at will determine your acceleration and braking force. Obviously, the lower the value, the less power you use, and higher your range :smiley:

My first board was 60A total, and with a top speed of 45km/h (28mph) it was more than enough for me :exploding_head:

Btw, if you haven’t already, I recommend reading this starting guide for new people, it answers a lot of the same questions and more!

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#25

Ok ill take a look. Ive been doing research for a few weeks now, i’m almost done with picking parts.

Is Maytech an ok brand to buy from? Flipsky I heard is worse

#26

Maytech motors are quite expensive, but overall their product quality is much better than flipsky’s. It really varies product to product. Motors? Might be the best. ESCs? all have some issue or another. Remote? best to avoid

#27

Ok yeah. I am using flipsky motors and remote, maytech escs

#28

Fine balance between price and quality with all those parts, I hope you get lucky and succeed!

#29

I hope so too, although I dont want it to seem lucky haha

#30

Remote will be fine as long as you don’t go to San Francisco
Motors will be fine as long as you don’t smash them against too many rocks / don’t let them run super hot
ESC will be fine if you don’t run it at more than 30A. Also BLDC mode might be safer than FOC, but yolo

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#31

why not San Francisco? and how dangerous is it over 30A?

#32

Everyone in San Francisco works in IT and owns 3 internet of things toasters that make wireless communication very unreliable. You need a quality remote that does frequency hopping like a Hoyt puck, Trampa wand (citation needed), or OSSR remote to survive there.

Well, as I said, at over 30A I got the occasional over current cutouts when accelerating. Maybe it was just my motor, don’t know. Many people easily fry their 4.2 ESCs. I think if you keep it under the recommended spec of 50A it should be fine, but just to be safe and set your expectations right, 30A each is what I treat them as. Doubt anyone on this forum has been successfully running 2 of these each at 50A for more than a day lol

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#33

Thats interesting, I never knew that

Ok ill leave them at 30A. I weigh 125 and i want to be able to break down some pretty steep hills. I guess ill need to try it out

#34

You’re way lighter than me, 60A at a top speed of 27mph will get you up plenty of hills :smiley:

#35

Oh ok, so if i set both of the escs at 30A max I technically have 60A drawing from the battery

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#36

Yes. I mean you’re not losing that much; with the best ESC in the world you’d still only be able to get 20A more from your setup :stuck_out_tongue:

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#37

oh ok thats good. so then why do they advertise them so high?

#38

Because everyone else rates them at that, and they’re poor at testing, and they don’t specify for how long they can handle the current, so they’re technically correct but practically not.

#39

Ahh ok. Do you know how much current a boosted stealth gets? Those feel mad powerful especially going up hills

#40

Don’t know; sorry. Acceleration is mostly dependent on motor amps, which you can increase even if you have a weak battery; all you need is big motors to take the heat. If you’re going dual 6355 or more, you’ll definitely outpower any boosted lol