So you have 2 or 3 flipsky boards that work, congrats, most people have 30% failure rate within the first mile. They use a heavy copper flow and it causes a lot of cold solder joints on DRVs and MCUs.
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I have the same intermittent cab connection issues. Sometimes it works great, sometimes it will see the can connected vesc but can’t read or write. Multiple reconnection attempts seem to be my only solution atm
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Allow me to disagree with this part. My first build was a couple of hub motors with all terrain 105 mm wheels and ESC from diyeboard.com. Later I added two more to the front, so four hub motors and two dual ESCs in total, making 2000 W. The power is fantastic, it goes up everywhere and the standstill startup is very good, although I’m running them unsensored.
Actually, the 4000 W I have in my MTB setup doesn’t feel like double of the power, although still very powerful.
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You must have tons of excellent pavement to ride near you. I’m out on the east coast of the USA and the roads around here are like something out of mad max. 6" pneumatic tires are my setup of choice lately with Avio MKII gear drives. Running dual 6374 190kv motors rated at 3250w each in sensored mode. It’s super smooth and insanely quiet and never leaves me wanting more.
My MTB setup will soon be pushing 9100w (dual 6396 motors) with 9" tires and a 5:1 gear ratio, up from 6376 motors with a 5.9:1 gear ratio. I’ve since sold off both of my hub motor driven boards. I’ve tried several, all of them left me disappointed.
That’s correct, I use hub motors just for asphalt of course.
Just starting with MTB and loving it 
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Maybe you should checkout the Go-Foc SV6? Go-FOC SV6 and Go-FOC SV4 New shelves! ------Maker-X - It is supposedly rated for 100 amps and a pair should run 50 a piece without issues. They also have a dual model, I think its the retro, if you get it with their cooling case they bump the rating to 100 amps. Not enough people on the forum have tested the EB Maker stuff yet, but I may roll the dice. Early reports are encouraging and they appear to be well designed and solidly built. Personally I would go for singles to make it safer and easier to replace if you fry one. Or if you can wait a few months the v6 Neo Boxes look extremely promising to me. The Foc Box formula has legendary reliability + V6 reliability should = a reliable little ESC. RE: the Maytechs - be careful if you plan to use UART for your controller with those - some peeps have had issues, but I cannot remember the details. This speed controller drought will hopefully be over soon!
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Exactly… I also think this is a weird situation which shouldn’t last much longer.
Update: I reviewed the cables, tried new sensored motors, experimented with several versions of VESC FW and tried both PPM and UART remote connections methods. Also tried to connect the receiver only after motor setup wizard, as recommended by Flipsky.
I cannot pinpoint exactly what it is, but sometimes after motor wizard the problem is almost gone and almost unnoticeable. Right now, after the last try, the behavior is pretty satisfactory, although perhaps not perfect.
I think that UART yields better results than PPM and that connecting the receiver after motor wizard doesn’t work at all, in my case. It’s definitely not due to buggy firmware, as I got back to latest 4.1 and it is not inferior to 3.66. Also, only could get better results when running the motor wizard with the pulleys free (no belts attached to the wheels).
So I couldn’t reach any solid conclusion… on the other hand I was able to get it to a point where it’s working good, although the result of the configuration seems a bit random to me…
Unfortunately, another two problems… first, when I was connecting motor cables to the FSVESC, it turned on to never being off again. Power button cable was disconnected at the time and after I connected it again it doesn’t seem to do anything, the VESC is always on 
The other one is that I noticed a couple of cut outs when going uphill.
So, this is my update, hope it helps other people as well.
If you are experiencing intermittent CAN BUS performance, check your CAN cable, it has to be a twisted pair, failing to do so for a differential signal is self-defeating. Shielded is a plus.
Thanks, but I think it does not apply here has it is a Dual VESC from Flipsky.
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Hi new here so not exactly sure where to put this message
Pls can someone point me in the right direction. I have wired up my new dual vesc 6.6 which had both blue & green lights working. I was setting up vesc on vesc tool & now on the usb 1 side of vesc green light is not working & now will not connect to computer. Can & how can I get this working again.
I have Flypsky 6.6 Dual and have a bit different issue. So, the problem that I have is that when I reach the top speed, one of my motors stops pulling… As soon as I dial my remote a bit less then full power, the other motor kicks in again… I can really feel it when it engages and disengages…
It’s a bit scary…
You might want to start your own thread.
Another update, I received another FSVESC to try…
It’s hard to believe but it’s doing the same thing. Now I tried with a couple of hub motors. FSVESC, cables, connectors, remote, is all new, nothing left from the previous test.
First a video with the motors controlled by a generic chinese ESC where it works flawlessly:
Now the video with the FSVESC I just received:
The FSVESC kinda works but very poorly. Is this product just a hopeless case?..
Flipsky vesc are garbage. I have had 4 fail on me. The dual are the worst.
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From my own experience I’m tempted to agree… will probably never touch them again.
Very interested in the neoBOX development. I think Torque Boards are also developing their own.
Guys, I need your help on this…
Flipsky engineers said this is normal behavior and is working as designed.
As I show in the first video (https://youtu.be/MFuzuoao1hI), it doesn’t happen at all with an ESC from diyeboard.com. However, because I don’t have other VESC variants to compare besides the FSVESC, could you give some feedback whether you also experience this difference between the two motors when not loaded?
Here is the response from Flipsky technical team:
They has explain is normal, as below:
1.Because this is no-load,and the load is very light, and the frictional forces on the structure are different. When the same output of low power is caused, one side moves and the other side has not moved. This is a multi-faceted problem, there is normal .
2.ESC output power control also has a small deviation.
3.When the person stands up, under load, these deviations and small frictional differences can be ignored, and balance can be achieved.
Call them out on their bullshit. Tell them they have a slave CAN communication issue. I had to make a video to prove it was junk. Then had to pay to send it back. Record you turning on the board hit throttle and both wheels spin, go ride or whatever and keep filming. When you feel one side stop working, flip the board over and spin up the wheels showing only one spinning
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Actually I just show that in the video
Also on the other video I show it working flawlessly with other ESC…
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Sounds like you need to be more stern with your wording. Tell them you are going to file a chargeback due to defective products
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