So I know there are a bunch of random posts about DRV faults but most of them talk about faults that require power cycling or resetting the board. They are also coupled with cutouts and other issues.
I’m seeing a single random DRV fault about 50% of my rides. It seems to be within the first mile or two on a fully charged battery and the fault only shows for < 1s in Metr Pro tracking. I never experience any cut outs (it’s super short, so who knows) and it seems to only happen while mostly coasting (barely or no current being applied). The fault always shows -0.0 for the current, RPMs will be whatever I’m coasting at, and not sure what some of the other numbers mean…
Thanks. Understand the sentiment… The posts are hit or miss here about Flipsky.
It seem unusual given the lack of a latching fault. Seems like all the posts I read say they have cut outs or have to power cycle the ESC.
I bought the board and parts from a 3rd party, they plan to reach out to Flipsky. I’d be interested if others have seen this before.
I plan to open the enclosure later this evening to check for phase wire shorts (nothing visible I can see) as well as re-inspect the DRV chip under magnification. I need to get a few more runs in to see if the DRV fault is always on the master side or if the slave ever triggers. If both trigger randomly, it may be some other issue going on.
New theory (besides the TVS diode question above)… wiring between ESC and battery may be too long with my loop key adapter cable configuration. I previously had the adapter installed because the built-in anti-spark had failed on me (see Connected battery to dual flipsky 4.20 plus without anti-spark switch). The FSESC was replaced and has a good anti-spark, so the loop key isn’t necessary (for now).
I removed the loop key to see if the faults go away. I’ve only had time to do two 7-8mile runs so far, but no faults yet… I’m just not sure how to trigger it. Coasting, riding hard, riding randomly, etc…
I see a bunch of posts about 30cm max for cable length. Is that round trip length (total of + and -) or length of two conductors side by side? Without the loop key adapter, it’s about 6” for each conductor, so right at 30cm total. The loop key adds another 20-25cm total length (the positive wires need to be long enough to reach the enclosure edge). I feel like @b264 knows the answer to these questions
I’ll report back after I get a few more rides in… seems like it’s a 25% chance I see the fault so I need a few more rides.
That’s because the FSESCs are all hit or miss. I’ve had good luck with ones I’ve bought, but others have had terrible times. Also its easy to fry them with settings that are too ambitious.
Yep, I understand that. I didn’t pick these settings, they came from a 3rd-party, but after a reasonable amount of research, the settings seem completely reasonable and isn’t pushing it to the spec’d limits.
I’m also not pushing it hard when I see the fault. It seems like it’s just happening during coasting and maybe during slight power or braking.
I believe its the distance between the battery itself and the ESC. It should probably include any kind of eswitch as well. Generally speaking, always make any wiring as short as possible.
So I took my extra loop key adapter out and thought that might have fixed the problem (by shortening the battery wires). I didn’t get faults for maybe 10x 5-8mi rides. However, just took a short ride this evening and I got a fault before I even got moving (so quick it didn’t even show up on my automatic Metr Pro record). No noticeable cut out and it immediately recovers.
Just had my first one during a ride instead of at the start/end of my ride on my 100D. 8 months of zero issues and rarely got any faults to come on up and when they were it was DRV when powered on/of
