Drop deck stack

Uhhh hmmm

Probably bigger non stainless bolts

M5 socket head maybe

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Dropdecks definitely make for some tight tolerances for motor clearance when forward mounted. Especially when going drop through.

I think you get away 1/3 the amount of riser there.

I would temp mount your enclosure, tape/clamps. Take off your roadside bushing to help show the full possible movement of the truck/drive. Then start with 0 riser to see where it’s hitting and exactly how much riser you’ll need.

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More like this?

Was thinking the same thing.

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Yup. Haven’t stripped hardware since moving to these.

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The scientific method shows it’s face. Looks like I missed the obvious method of discovery. Thanks

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angled risers and adjustable baseplates sir

On a side note, whose doing those mini trailer hitches?

I’m using Boardnamics bases.

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Don’t know of anyone selling, but @rafaelinmissouri made a nice one you can model after.

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When I first joined someone was. Long hair or someone like that. I’ve asked several times and get the same answer.
Time to finish that cnc/print set up.

i’d check out some angled risers, this is going to be a monster truck

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Is that less of a stress on the bolts? Or just two of them?

Ironically, but yes, like that big rusty one

That’s not a skyscraper. This is a skyscraper.

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Check out my century build, used about 1 inch of risers in front. Highly recommend getting strong bolts, aluminum risers in .25 inches from send cut send, and top plates at .175 inches. Use tight tolerances, as tight as possible. Stack them and put rubber between.

Risers like that make me want someone to design an ESC like a modification of the Cheap Focer that includes clearance for the deck screws. If you put the 4 truck holes in them you could stack them or hale 2 bolts in each ESC.

I’m sure someone besides me has considered this.

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@dickyho steel ones on eBay.

I just picked up a few of the standard x ones and I like them.

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Bought those a few years ago. Not bad.

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They have the jolly. Fits the pirate thing. Thanks

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