It’s all in the detail now. Failure of threaded inserts is pretty common so I wanted a solution to it. The threaded inserts aren’t even epoxied in, what’s the point… instead, I’ve under bolted with enough thread to still mount the controller enclosure bolts. The other end will hang off the back a bit on the custom plates.
Bindings are causing me some grief with the finish I was chasing, I’m not trusting inserts for that job either so I’m going to have to be a bit clever how I go about it. The MBS is ok but the tomiboi is giving me grief.
Just wasn’t happy with some of the finish peeling and well… It needed to be properly customised anyway, I was halfway with adding the cable recess and adding flanges all the way round the front and rear for a good seal so to the bottom of the hole I went.
In other news… this battery has been like realising your going to have red headed children and you know you’ll have to love them anyway regardless if they have no souls…
Heat shrink is somehow the wrong size… Part of me wants to order the correct size and part of me will Gaffa tape the shit out of the 2 middle packs instead.
Enclosure is done awaiting terminals to be fitted. The deck also a job or 2 away.
The drivetrain got pinched for #03 as I broke the hangers and there was no stock … I blame @poastoast … But I’m assured a replacement isn’t too far away for me. Fingers crossed I can keep some clear space to finish the last few jobs.
Working out a solution for this horrible detail that I created wasn’t that bad in the end… I spent way more time thinking about various solutions which in fact weren’t… can’t see why this won’t be ideal
I have a solution for keeping the pack from moving apart and stressing those connections… this stuff is amazing… it’s used to stitch astro turf segments together. It’s robust as all hell, abrasion resistant and the glue will not come off anything once adhered.
uhhhhhhhhhhh I’m probably going to regret commenting on ANYTHING about this battery build, but…
I strongly recommend using longer loops of wire, which have a lot less solder soaked into them. Those tiny segments of wire are almost certainly going to get solder wicked all the way through them, making them completely stiff and highly susceptible to breaking. Even if you somehow manage to keep the solder from soaking all the way through, the total length of un-soaked copper strands is very small, meaning any flex is going to be seriously concentrated in those tiny segments.
Use 3x or 4x the length for each wire, and angle the solder joints so that the wire loops around in a relaxed position rather than trying to make right-angles from that vertical surface. It will be easier to make, easier to solder, easier to service in the future if needed, and much less prone to breaking.
I’m probably going to regret commenting on ANYTHING about this battery build, but…