Is this wiki still correct or missing anything?
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Locktite is overrated and a pain in the ass to remove later so I use locking washers where the tiny bit of extra height won’t cause any issues. Just make sure to replace them after a while since they do start wearing out. I typically replace mine when doing other maintenance, but I also buy extra bolts when it is possible to find more locally.
That way if I loose too many bolts I can replace them at home and then go out and buy more for future use. It is annoying to have to wait for parts or to be unable to skate to the store to buy more.
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I agree 100%, nylon lock nuts are 10x better
uhh, I disagree 100%. Locking washers suck
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I always try to use Nylocks if I can, I buy those bitches in bulk 
I have bags for each size depending how used it is
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But that requires an extra tool for removal. Lock washers need no tool to remove
Where they’re possible to be used they are the best option, but if you can’t access the end of the bolt then they’re useless.
They work well when used with other methods to hold a bolt in place. Like a threaded hole that isn’t open on the other side. Adding a locking washer will help prevent vibrations from loosening the bolt over time, and probably also help prevent damage to the internal threads too.
What are we talking about here?
Split ring washers
or like Nord lock washers.
Because the first is totally utterly useless for stopping a fastener from backing out and you’re better off using a normal washer with enough torque. I’ve read the paper, tested the outcomes.
The second are 
awesome and i applaud you if you’re overkilling it that hard.
But Loctite is the correct answer. You don’t even have to clean the threads, you can just pile more on and it’ll work well enough. But if you’re not letting it cure, its not doing anything.
Nylon locknuts have their place, but you should be inspecting the nylon insert every time you go to reinstall or else you’re just rolling the dice. They wear out / finite life span.
Yes
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What size were the ones you tested? They work very well for smaller bolts and I’ve tested that first hand with hub motors and found that not using them will lead to bolts coming loose but with them they don’t come loose.
If you suddenly have a ton of vibrations the bolts can still loosen a little bit but they’ll prevent all of them from slipping out even if you didn’t fully tighten the bolt before hand. (made a dumb mistake the other day and didn’t tighten my bolts before heading out after a repair to a different area. Didn’t think about the fact that the event that caused the repair to be needed produced a ton of heavy vibration)
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If they’re working better with than without, you didn’t tighten the fasteners enough to begin with.
Proper preload is the first step to making sure fasteners don’t back out.
NASA and repeated testing agree
NASA Reference Publication 1228 (1990) “Fastener Design Manual”
If you’re goal is not to stop the fastener from loosening but just not to lose it entirely… then… i don’t know man, you do you. That’s not what i care about. If my whole board is sloppy ive already failed.
Our #1 source of failure is vibration. I’m always thinking about what it does to the system. It’ll kill everything eventually if you let it.
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I honestly hate this argument. I’d much rather use an extra tool for install/removal than deal with a sub-standard, unreliable work method.
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I’m enroute to get more map gas.
I didn’t know this prior to esk8, but fasteners are life. If you are serious about anything that goes fast, then sign up for the fasten life.
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I don’t see how those could work as grub screws on the pulley 
Proper choice of loctite type is the key.
Blue 243 for example isn’t really strong and used on parts which need maintenance. Should be easy to get a screw out with a normal hex key.
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Don’t be silly, they work best when used as tires
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I’ve had issues removing bolts with blue 242 on them before despite it saying that you can use just hand tools to be able to remove anything it is used on.
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242 & 243 are essentially the exact same, except 243 is much better at adhering to/interstitially penetrating into oily or not completely cleaned parts.
i.e. 242 is obsolete and there’s no reason to use it instead of 243. Not entirely why they haven’t phased it out of production yet.
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I know its nasa, but isnt there still upward force acting on the bolt head since the spring washer is compressed?
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Yeah, but I think the point is that when you tighten a bolt onto a flat washer you get the exact same upwards force.
I found changing the standard hardware to proper high tensile bolts worked a treat.
A lot of the time the original cheese hardware just isnt up to the task for the torque settings that are needed for the sort of forces we put components through.
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My understanding is the green loctite is applied after the nut is in place and actually cures without exposure to air. But definitely need the 24 hrs for it to work. The red and blue are applied to the threads before tightening.
When I ordered the green online it took a month to arrive to the USA. Made in India I think.
Checking all the bolts and such before riding has become a must for me. Kind of a PITA sometimes but losing bolts is worse!
“green loctite” doesn’t mean much at all unless you specify which green
I think you definitely might mean green Loctite 290 which is actually my most used one
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