Don’t be silly, they work best when used as tires

Blue 243 for example isn’t really strong and used on parts which need maintenance. Should be easy to get a screw out with a normal hex key.
I’ve had issues removing bolts with blue 242 on them before despite it saying that you can use just hand tools to be able to remove anything it is used on.
242 & 243 are essentially the exact same, except 243 is much better at adhering to/interstitially penetrating into oily or not completely cleaned parts.
i.e. 242 is obsolete and there’s no reason to use it instead of 243. Not entirely why they haven’t phased it out of production yet.
I know its nasa, but isnt there still upward force acting on the bolt head since the spring washer is compressed?

I know its nasa, but isnt there still upward force acting on the bolt head since the spring washer is compressed?
Yeah, but I think the point is that when you tighten a bolt onto a flat washer you get the exact same upwards force.
I found changing the standard hardware to proper high tensile bolts worked a treat.
A lot of the time the original cheese hardware just isnt up to the task for the torque settings that are needed for the sort of forces we put components through.
My understanding is the green loctite is applied after the nut is in place and actually cures without exposure to air. But definitely need the 24 hrs for it to work. The red and blue are applied to the threads before tightening.
When I ordered the green online it took a month to arrive to the USA. Made in India I think.
Checking all the bolts and such before riding has become a must for me. Kind of a PITA sometimes but losing bolts is worse!
“green loctite” doesn’t mean much at all unless you specify which green
Stop referring to threadlocker by colors.
I think you definitely might mean green Loctite 290 which is actually my most used one