Disconnecting the battery and waterproof connectors


I am planning two 12s builds right now. One urethane build and a mountainboard. Both will have 12s battery.
Even is the mountainboard battery will be way biggerm, I would like to be able to detach the batteries from both boards so I can switch batteries if one of the two is depleted. I also want to be able to detach for safe charging and storing.

I already started designing 3d printed waterproof detachable enclosures (going on top of the boards just like Trampa enclosures). That part of the process is ok for me.

But I am not sure about the electric part… Is it ok to frequently detach the battery from the vesc (bkb xenith and ubox spintend)? Is there anything to do before detaching?

I want everything to be waterproof. My charger is 3P GX16, is there any good waterproof chargeport availiable? Using a cap is ok…

I would also like to have waterproof wire connectors that are easy to detach near the battery for the wires that go to the vesc. Any toughs or recommendations for that?

Thank you very much!

1 Like

When connecting the battery to the esc it’s important to have something that limits the in rush current. The esc has capacitors that will charge very quickly and will generate a spark at that plug.

You can use a Xt90 anti spark. They are somewhat waterproof if you glue the holes at the back and have a resistor that limits the in rush current.

For the charge port I recommend a 10A DC 5.5mm port with a rubber cover.

As long as you won’t submerge it I think Xt30-60-90s are reasonably waterproof.


I have stl files for xt90 mounting plates.

Using anti spark is the way to do it.
I also have this approach on my board. Although I would recommend a pelican case above a print if we are talking about waterproofing.

The metal caps SUUUUUUCK

Trust me, these rubber GX16 caps are better:

The metal ones, as soon as any dirt or grit or brake dust gets on them, they get really difficult to screw and unscrew and the threads end up a mess, the threads are too fine, and they’re too short.

If a fused GX16-3 for charging with a rubber cap is the only exposed circuitry, you should be relatively fine regarding water. Orient the cap such that to remove the cap, it goes up against gravity when the board is in the riding position. Make sure you fuse the back of the charge port and you seal it to the enclosure from the back.

MR60 connectors, epoxy, and zero sensor wires.

and for the power wires, the same setup except with Amass XT90S connectors. Always epoxy the male side (the side with pins) through the enclosure and have the female side plug into it (the side with holes).


wait… do i see 2 mr60 for 2 motors? :thinking:


Which kind of fuse do you normally use? Having a hard time finding suitable ones, which are small and simple.


You’re the best, thanks.


Anyone trying to find those in the EU, just search for ‘blade fuse 58v 10a’.

One supplier I found in Germany:

1 Like

I just epoxy those inside the enclosure by the charge port, and solder wires to them.

1 Like

Great idea.
Btw, epoxy is just awesome, the mr60 connectors are like rock in there. I think I’m even developing an addiction for wanting to use it everywhere…


Yeah it’s super useful. Like omg

Wait until you discover you can put stuff in it.

Like silica thickener or milled glass fiber or glass microspheres or aluminum powder or steel powder or carbon fiber or glass cloth or LEDs or charge ports…

Also read up about epoxy blush. When adding epoxy to epoxy, either do it halfway through curing, or wait until full cure then wash the blush off before adding more


You just became @b264 's best friend.

1 Like

ahahahahahaha, is that good? :grin:

1 Like

If I’ve learned anything, it’s that Brian is a wizard and has tried (and epoxied) the things you’ve just started thinking about trying.

1 Like

Exactly my feeling, it’s like LSD. I’m imagining right now putting entire enclosures on epoxy.