I’m putting my battery pack together. I wired up 2 6s1p 16ah lipo batteries in series and just finished hooking everything up to my DieBieMS. I connected Neg first, then Positive, then the balance connector. I was having issues with it turning on, but I was finally able to get it connected to the v0.27 tool. Looking at the realtime data, it shows C1 at 1.923V, and C2 at 5.374V. I thought maybe I had a bad cell, but I just pulled out my klein multimeter, and it’s reading C1 as 3.768, and C2 as 3.771. Any ideas on how I can fix this? BMS is unusable in this state seeing as it’s going to explode my battery pack when I go to charge it.
Okay, I guess it isn’t reading the voltage incorrectly, it’s just not staying powered on. I have to press and hold the power button to get it to start, and when I release it powers down. The power button operation is set to pulse, which should allow me to just press the button and have the BMS power on. I’m not sure why it won’t stay on.
Now it’s giving me a pack error for some reason. I updated to V0.30 using the 0.30 tool, splash screen still shows 0.27 for some reason. The pack checks out completely fine, so it has to be something on the diebie.
EDIT: I figured out what the pack error is from. Apparently the black balance connector is complete dogshit and the pins do not stay inside the connector, so they walk out if you plug/unplug it a few times. Completely unacceptable. If those back out your battery has a fun time melting down.
meassure the cell voltage on the PCB instead.
This is a common issue with the diebiems, usually a bad crimp in the connector, loose connection on one of the balance leads and/or one channel on the stack monitor is fucked.
You can meassure the cell voltage between the bleed resistors.
not sure which version diebie you have, but this resistor has failed on all my units so far
Should be something like 15 ohm. but fails to kilo or mega ohm. its the main supply for the buck, but if your bms is alive this might be a concern yet.
I’ve already done that. The voltages are all correct there. The issue of the voltage not being read correctly had to do with the DieBie not staying powered on. Now it will show the correct voltage in the tool (assuming the balance connector has all the pins pushed in and not backed out cause it’s a shit connector). It still will not power on, or stay powered on. I need to keep the momentary switch held to keep it powered on. The setting in the tool is set for momentary/pulse, so I’m not sure what the issue is.
Honestly, I dont see an issue with just putting a solder bridge over it. I think its meant to limit the inrush current to the regulator, but the redundancy there is abit on the paranoid end.
Looking at the datasheet, the regulator has a built in softstart feature, it will limit inrush for a brief window, which confuses me even more why that resistor is there
Hm, usually when you plug in the crimped terminals into the connector(female part), it gives you a “click” that indicates its been inserted correctly. After that its usually really hard to even budge them and quite easy to destroy if attempted to pry em out.
Do you have fresh crimps and some sort of crimping tool at hand?
Think I can digout the connector for you so you can order a fresh one.
Yes I have a crimp tool, cheap one from amazon. There is no click, so I’m not sure what the issue is. I may need a new housing as well. What orientation do the pins need to be in the connector? I was checking the wurth documentation and couldn’t find an instruction manual for insertion.
The red part should be facing the sky when inserting. Given that you’re holding the connector as it should be when inserting to the receptable on the PCB.
Its the two wings on the sides that does the “click” noise.
The first loop holds the cable+shroud, the second the conductor. You can apply a tiny amount of solder on the second in order to assure a solid connection.
