google gave me this, might be bit more descriptive then my doodle
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Alright, I removed the resistor and solder bridged it and still no dice. I have to press and hold the button to get it to turn on. While I’m pressing and holding the button, I can connect to it with the tool and read the settings. It doesn’t seem to be writing settings to the bms though. I re-uploaded the firmware and it shows it is set to momentary/pulse, but it still won’s stay on.
Hm, have you tried turning it on via CAN?
Its the “roll to start” feature. If i remember correctly its 5V + can enable. Sure you can fish it out in a post here somewhere
I haven’t messed with that, but I can’t get it to turn on, and I honestly don’t really trust this thing. Balance lead connector is being a massive PITA.
These were not known for their reliability. I have two that have several failed hardware components.
They were a great platform that forked into the reliable FlexiBMS and Ennoid’s BMS though.
I thought they were all the rage. I basically spent 80 bucks on a brick.
So where can I get a charge only BMS that isn’t going to take 3 months to get here? At this point I’m ready to just buy one from lacroix.
Send a message to @SimosMCmuffin - he might have some FlexiBMSs ready. They are a small charge only 12s CAN enabled BMS. I think they are under $100 shipped to the US.
Otherwise Ennoid ships fast but is a bit more expensive. He has been more active on the firmware side of things, and did some cool integrations with the VESC tool lately.
Both are charge only BMSs.
Not to say you can’t get the DieBieMS working, all the schematics and BOMs are available… just that they seem to fail somewhat often from what I’ve seen.
The guy I bought the DieBie from obviously used a pair of pliers to terminate the balance connector. I just want it to work and charge my battery. If I knew it was going to be this big of a pain in the ass, I would have just bought a Lipo charger.
Is there any benefit to the ennoid over the flexi? I don’t feel like spending 200 on an ennoid if I don’t have to.
I have both, I like the Flexi a lot. It’s super small and works well. You do have to program it through a terminal and lookup a bunch of commands. It took me a few iterations to get the settings the way I wanted it as far as sleep/wakeup. But once it’s setup you can view the battery cells and charge current from the metr or freesk8 app as long as it’s connected via CANBUS to a VESC.
Ennoid is a lot easier to setup. He built his own GUI tool based on the VESC tool and also has some integrations into the main VESC tool now. He also did a bunch of cool stuff like isolated canbus, bluetooth connectivity, etc.
Fun fact: it doesn’t actually matter what end you connect first when it comes to negative and positive. Hell, even the way we model current is technically wrong, but everyone already learned it/ it became a standard so we just stuck with the standards in place already. 
Also, in 99.99% of cases, if not all of them, it doesn’t actually matter anyway since it makes no difference. Just gotta make sure you always model it as current flowing from positive to negative voltage, or always model it as the opposite and you’re good. electrons are negatively charged so they’re actually flowing from negative to positive. Unless I somehow fucked up and flipped my understanding because I’m tired and might have had a bit to drink 
None of this info will help fix your battery but it is kind of relevant
All that was meant to say is “I followed the directions”