Thanks a lot dude, its charging now, I dont know about the cutouts but if it is atleast charging im happy.
The picture makes a lot of sense, thinking back i dont know why or how i thougth it was a good idea to remove that fuse. Thanks again for your help, youre awesome!! And sorry for loosing your time with such a dumb question 
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I m checking it now, Exactly the charger its fucked. Thank god today arrived on the mail a new one from anubis that works like a charm!!
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No problem, this is why theres a community. Everyone can’t know everything.
If you tried to run current thru the BMS without the fuse, it 100% wont work, if at all. you wont have anything that supports the full current to the ESCs.
So if you did, try wire it without the discharge bypass, with fuse mounted and it will prob work fine. Else we can troubleshoot that too if you feel up for it.
Hopefully you can ride now atleast 
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If you feel up for it you can open up your charger and most likly there will be some screw potentiometers you can fiddle with. One of them will control output voltage. Its quite an easy fix so dont throw away the charger. Alot of manufacturers put the voltage level below full cell voltage cause its easier on the cells and they will last longer, but its a personal prefrence.
Do NOT do this with the 230V(or w/e your socket gives you) plugged in, cause shit is dangerous.
Preferably you’d screw on a potentiometer, then plug it, read charger voltage and repeat until you reach desired result.
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I dont think the bms was working, It turned on but nothing else. I will keep the bypass as i expect the cutouts to keep happening. If youre up for it will try to troubleshoot in the future to see if we can put it up and running, as now im really busy working in the morning and in class in the afternoon, in fact, im in class right now XD.
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This seems like something i can fix in 30 mins or less so i wil try tonight. Thanks for that also!!
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Just ping me in this thread if you need help, if I’m near my PC I can help whenever.
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Awesome!!!
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Btw, that resistor and fuse absolutely need to be mounted or worst case bridged with solder, but I’m guessing you fixed that?
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Actually i bougth the battery second hand and it was already like that.
Hey, im working on recrimping my balance connections, but i cant manage to find the little metal part that goes inside the connector. turns out it is smaller than the standart servo connector. i mean this piece.
where can i buy them?
@tinp123 knows… Because he had to do all of mine 
.
Not fun…
They are hard to find and expensive from memory.
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Shit… then i may be better off soldering them to the board… well i will wait untill i get a reply. Thx for the info!
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They are expensive when you order them alone
@Oddcomo herr is link from mouser: https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Elektronik/66200113722DEC/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiXHLqk9ZOD5MzIAc50mZ4kWOLccQD9Sz0hlhbgfzRRSQ%3D%3D
I might have some left at home, let me check
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Thanks for this dude!! @tinp123
Edit: just checked the page, and when i went to pay saw the 20 bucks for shipping… If you have some of those connectors arround i would buy them from you!!
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Man, you are lucky today, because I have both metal pins and one already made connector which I don’t need! I can send both if you want.
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You are saving my life… Thanks a lot man, let me pm you
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How do you guys run your balance wire from the WR-MPC3 connector. How important is it to not cross balance cables. Is it ok to run them in a bundle?
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If you connect them correctly there is no problem in having them tangled up or bundle them. The only downside is troubleshooting.
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