I’ve already had this discussion… as I recall the reply was something along the lines of
“not just NO, but FUKK NO”
hence my falling from the heard and following you down the mini remote system rabbit-hole…
Was in reference to the beta version:
But the new updated version is very similar in size/stature/hole girth.
Bonus @Arzamenable Dong Model:
We just want to tickle the sack of the dong.
Ch1/Ch2/CH3 are leftover relics/architecture from how Hobby/RC receivers were setup in the 80s/90s. Esk8 took something that wasn’t intended for it, and made it work for that. PWM is a dumb signal, so trusting your safety to something like that when there are better options available isn’t something I’d do out of choice.
With the FreeSK8 System being built here there is no concept of ‘channels’ in a traditional sense. We have a LightShow module that will give full control over Front/Rear lighting (12v @7amp) + RGB lighting control/throttle based effects & animations. Rather than trying to make hobby equipment fit into our needs, FreeSK8 is a ground-up purpose designed/built system.
In other words, you are asking if there are wooden oars on our yacht, and I’m sorry to say that there are not.
On the multiple receivers topic: I’ve actually answered it a few times publicly & privately. It’s an incredibly niche application/mode with an unclear benefit over other solutions that are already available without an additional investment in development. It also carries a risk that has to be weighed against any perceived benefits.
The only useful application I can think of for a 1x Remote to 2x isolated ESC/Receivers configuration would be if it was physically impossible to run a wire cable between the ESCs. A dual receiver configuration is inherently higher risk than running cables.
A dual/redundant setup like the Boosted production boards that were built, is another topic entirely.
If we choose to go down this route of development you’ll certainly hear about it here, but at the moment we do not have the resources to go chasing very niche applications/control modes. Everything will be open sourced though, so you’re welcome to build your own solution. 
What if I want to run my lightbar. It’s currently running on 12s. Would it have reduced brightness?
The LightShow module takes 18-60V input and produces 12V @ 7A. If your lighting solution doesn’t operate at that voltage than you will have to find a different solution to control it.
Again, the idea here is to build out a comprehensive system spec of components that work together, not build the impossible task of creating one thing that works for every individuals specific needs.
There will be a LightShow Module with and a few lighting kit options to proper spec, with the full spec’s published. Beyond that it’s up to the user.
Doesn’t answer my question 
My light can go that low. But would there be a downside to going that low? Would my light seem dim (compared to my present setup)?
Hook it up to a car battery and check?
My wife doesn’t want my board anywhere near her suv
But how will we get back to shore if the engine is shot?
Do it while she is sleeping
that will require the maths…
It’s okay, I like not sleeping on the couch
@DerelictRobot how does a PWM remote operate to open/close a channel? Is that something that could be replicated? I’d like to keep using my picoswitch
I have no way of answering if ‘your lightbar’ will operate to your level of satisfaction at 12v. DIY is a choose your own adventure bud.
But generally speaking running a lamp at lower voltage than what it is rated for will mean it runs dimmer and LEDs have a minimum, but there’s nowhere near enough information given to know, and I’m all outa time.
@Flasher in response to your last question:
No need for a picoswitch if the system already has user programmable relays.
Peace out homies, back to the grindstone.
Very exciting. Especially since I’ll have a board with some room soon.
I assume you’re referring to a mold for injection casting. Depending on how many parts you need and the type of material wanted, you could likely do a silicone mold and resin castings. You really only need to get a machined mold for large production runs. Touch base if you want to talk molds.
what genus of resin would you suggest for a trigger, that while nothing is crash-proof… let’s call it crash-resistant with out being too foofy and noodly… and being able to source in small quantities…
go…
