The inside of the 3D part mechanically locks into the XT90. The high temp glue was only to provide some water protection from the bottom and it’s very very sticky. The part itself wedges in there and is again, surrounded by a small amount of glue.
It’s not moving unless you want it to. And even sun exposure on a hot day here isn’t likely to free it. There would not be any compromise to the wiring if it did move.
Epoxy if you want a permanent solution, but it’s not needed
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Hey dudes, thanks to those that have followed along and offered advice along the way. This board is now rideable so I wanted to wrap up this build for the time being:
fucking hell was the enclosure a pain to screw on, I used 12mm long screws but could have used 15 instead, helps to use a clamp to squeeze the enclosure just a little so the screws can get that initial bite.
I ended up JB welding the xt90 on and rather than soldering on the anti-spark leads straight on as usual, I soldered them in at about 45 degrees so they would follow the contour of the deck closer and be less likely to snag, the problem with that is that left the wires dangerously exposed. To fix this I had liquid electrical tape, hot glue, jb weld, fast epoxy, and silicone on hand - I decided the silicone was the safest (rated to 400 deg F, waterproof) and least destructive option.
using heat shrink to hold the motor and esc phase connectors together.
cable organizers keep things neat and tidy and give a little bit more protection
I kind of cocked up installing the battery monitor, smeared a little bit of glue on the face
in all, this was an immensely satisfying experience and the variety of disciplines that go into building one of these murder machines is both applicable to other interests but also complex and nuanced enough to warrant further experimentation.
couple lessons I learned:
- the battery is def the scariest part, but also one of the most rewarding to complete
- I fucking hate polyester resin, but I like working with fiberglass, it’s epoxy and a vacuum next time
- do not attempt to “paint” using resin, so much easier if you want to paint your deck to do it with acrylic then top coat it with clear coat (if you’re doing grip tape) or epoxy (for frit)
- have a variety extra wires, fasteners, adhesives, connectors (jst ph, etc) on hand
- 25-30mm x 0.15mm nickel is def the way to go next time
- I think using sheet wax and mould putty would be the easiest way to make a quality enclosure next time, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeE1FdcQ3c8
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Sweet board, where did you get those cable organizers?
Very nice build! I was just wondering, you have so much ground and motor clearance left, why didnt u mount the deck drop through?
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This is a beautiful build! I think the handlaid fiberglass enclosures are the best.
What is bad about resin? Did you try painting with resin and it beaded up and looked terrible?
That battery is amazing!
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Super sweet build impressive enclosure.
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I really want to mount it pass thru but the rear deck will rub against the motor cans unless I chop off some wood.
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The poly resin in a layup worked just fine for the most part but would sometimes get inconsistent tack-free finishes. I used a combination of laminating and finishing resin which had wax premixed in, I might have had better results if I mixed in the wax myself. The problems came with trying to apply the resin by itself to the deck and the results were mostly like you described. I didn’t show how the first time I tried to do the bottom completely failed and I had to strip and re-sand the deck.
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I think the drugs must be wearing off because right as I’m dozing off I realize @Bavioze means there’s a bunch of ground clearance between the motor cans and the ground, not between the deck and cans like I had been measuring.
Holy crap man you were right. I rotated the mounts down one notch and wow, that change takes this to the next level for me. Take off the lights and you can ride it upside down now.
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Congratulations, your build as been officially added to the Ultraboards hall of fame! 
Those mounts are scary low though, you might want to grind the tail a bit or something to give them room to be higher.
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Nice work!
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No affiliation, I swear
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Lol it’s a meme for sure
super clean work!
Sorry, this is kind of a dumb question, but what are the shiny blue things around the enclosure screws called?
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Very nice build 
what’s your gearing w those pneumies?
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Thanks! I’m using 16:62 (3.875) at the moment. I designed this with 18:62 in mind but decided to take it slow.
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are you still using the idler mounts?
I’m trying to see if i can fit my evolve Boardbumpers 58T onto the BN270/Bn mounts.
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