just my natural probe holders 
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Make sure you are using quite firm pressure. And for nickel to nickel welds, a nice flat bit of aluminium underneath.
Holes generally blow through when there is nothing behind the nickel.
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yeah I think pressure is key, I’m starting to get the hang of it. I’ve been welding over a piece of scrap wood, I figured you’d want something non-conductive?
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The wood surface will likely dint under pressure and create a void causing the nickel to blow through.
You need to use a little more heat in your welds using aluminium, but its the best thing I have found.
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some progress on the battery:
who needs fancy cell holders?
I put an extra strip of fish paper under where the nickel tabs will be folded over
fish paper + adhesive neoprene foam on the positive ends
3x 14 awg for series connections
test fit
10 awg main leads, I’m a bit paranoid and added extra kapton tape over the solder joints other than where the sense wires will go (on the negative side of each series connection)
I added strips of heat shrink so the longitudinal strip of fish paper has something to rest on
sense wires soldered on
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Dude, such a neat battery 
If you are going to the extra length of adding an extra strip underneath the series tabs, next time try get it to wrap up onto the top of the cell under the nickel to protect the corner of the cells.
But thats just nitpicking. I tend to do that
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What he said, easiest thing to do is cut rectangles of fish paper and score the fold lube I with a knife so it bends exactly where you want
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That’s a really nice battery
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the devil is in the details, that bend does sketch me out a bit and i was wondering why you dont see that in more battery builds.
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thanks Brian, means a lot coming from you.
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Some progress:
Here I’m repainting the deck to match the enclosure. I ran into an issue where the pigment would separate during cure, likely because of the wax surfacing agent, but I decided to lean into this property after taking some inspiration from acrylic liquid art videos on YT. While the resin was gelling up I hit it with the heat gun, expanding and pushing around these “cells” to get an interesting effect. The heat gun definitely helped set the cure off, but I also sprayed on 3 coats of PVA and let it sit overnight.
Next I installed the machine screws for 4mm hardware.
Drilled holes for the charge port and phase wires. I couldn’t land on a neat way to wire the loop key out the side by the charge port so I decided to resolder some longer lines so I could attach the xt90 to the top of the deck by the trucks.
any thoughts on how to mount the male xt90 plug? I was thinking of jb welding it to the inside of the cutout, but an extra mechanical connection would be nice.
The TB 6380’s look awesome installed. The 410mm belts I ordered were way too long, I calculated (using this) that I needed 390 or 395 mm instead. The idler pulley actually left only a couple mm of adjustment swing before it would rub against the wheel pulley, so I’m swapping the idler plates for the BN regular plates.
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I have a loop key right in front of the rear baseplate. @bwahl602 3d printed a solid holder for this, however I think it’d only fit on a hummie with rodz baseplates. I think it looks sweet there. Makes it look like a little RC antenna.
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that looks great! I think this board is where I got the idea. Is the xt90 mount glued on?
I was sort of thinking about doing this on my hummie build, looks nice. I have normal caliber baseplates
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Highly recommend to not use glue.
Use a two-part epoxy, and preferably without the words “quick” or “fast” or “5 minute” on the packaging
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@b264
I’ve got some jb weld 8280 but I was a bit worried about it not having a good mechanical bond to the side of the deck, so I was wondering if anyone’s had luck with a bracket or similar.
Made an aluminium plate on mine for xt90 (emergency stop) and antispark button.
I used 2no. Clamps on the xt90 - above and below the plate. Can’t find the link for clamps, but they are like this style, were maybe a little cheaper.
NZ$ 20.26 | Yuenhoang 4PCS CNC XT90-S Plug Deck Connector Holder Fixture Plug Mount for Multirotor Power Supply System Accessories
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stunning work!
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If you are worried at all, just lightly sand the surface with griptape or preferably a finer grit sandpaper.
If the surface is clean, it will almost certainly stick to it unless it’s waxed or has oil on it. Scratching it up helps immensely. Also never fail to wait 40 hours before putting loads on it, and make sure you mix it very, very well in an even 1:1 ratio. Err on the side of “more black stuff” if you can’t get exactly 1:1 by volume.
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