I think the segmented and unsegmented have the same footprint. Just curious because I’ll have a spare double stack soon.
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The semendeed definitely has the space to accommodate the TomiBoi enclosure but you’ll definitely need gasket magic or 3D printed rim to accommodate the curvatures.
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Even with the flex in the kydex you think? Build looks awesome btw. What was happening with the crunchy noises?
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I’ll have a write up hopefully tonight but TL;DR is that CAN communication across the two is fucking up hopefully @YUTW123 will be able to help me diagnose. Going to go split PWM route.
I think even with flex of Kydex you’d get close but still need some gasket to fill it up. Otherwise my guess is the Kydex would start to crack.
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I forgot to tell you about the can thing actually. Seems like a few of us were misunderstanding the chip risk thing. As long as you don’t have the can line connected when you actually plug in your xt90’s there is no risk to the can chips or MCU.
I took out my split ppm since using a Davega again and I’ve been powering on and off with two separate buttons no issue.
Ah good to know. I went the single button route. I don’t believe I’ve damaged the CAN chips, but always possible I guess. Anyways it’s not acting right soooo got go split PWM.
Also…… am I glossing over the fact, do you have a semendeed!?
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I don’t but the guys at flowstate have the press and are able to press the decks no problem, they just don’t have an enclosure solution as yet.
Seeing the pics of your build makes me want.
Probably need a lot more than magic. Semendeed got dem cuuuuurves. Those tomiboi enclosures are completely flat iirc.
This is a slight concern to me as the enclosure definitely provides structural support for the deck. As the concave comes out of the gas pedals at the rear, the deck becomes almost flat and is a significant weak point.
With the fibreglass top/bottom skins and the fibreglass enclosure, this is a complete non issue, but if the deck was just pressed with straight timber veneers and just a kydex enclosure added, I would have serious concerns about the strength.
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Such a buzzkill haha. Good to know though man cheers. Hopefully they figure out an enclosure solution.
Do you think even with a carbon skin underneath it’d be a concern?
The kydex cracking… I did also think you could clamp and reheat it a little. I know there’s not going to be a lot you can do with the corners though
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To be honest, yes i think it’s still a concern. The flat spot is basically in the middle of the deck. Over such a long standing platform, having that flat section right there is kinda stupid in terms of strength, but its what I wanted for the concave features and the deck was only ever intended to be provided with enclosure as well.
By all means give it a go, i’m just shooting from the hip, it might be fine. I have a tendency to overkill stuff like that.
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When you did do split ppm how did you do the wiring?
Gnd 5v and pwm to the receiver from the main esc and on the other esc just the split pwm and the gnd connected to the shield of the cable only.
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Oh shielded interesting. Because power is coming off the other esc when I went to do input wizard I had to have both on which throttled one side while doing calibration on other. Then at some point the calibration side went full throttle and didn’t stop had to pull the loop key (glad I fucking put that in). Ended up just copying settings to the other side. Went for a test run ITS ALIVE, and seems fine.
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Fucking scuffed the motors and scared the shit out of me lol
Pics or it didn’t happen
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Alright, fuck where do I begin and what have I forgotten cause went through a lot. Things were moving right along but #JustVESCThings really came in to screw things up. Didn’t hit my goal of making it to intro to speed this weekend.
First off after today I’m basically done few cosmetic things to button up. But got the gasket on, motor pinions, and motors set with loctite and everything. Installed the @Tony_Stark SA12 Weipu charge port on. With everything as tight as it is in here the compact charge port was really needed. So, amazed at how small it is lol.
Minus the road bumps I was able to finally test run tonight so here it is currently:
Now if you’re curious what happened why didn’t I finish Monday night. TL;DR CAN is fucked up between the two and not communicating well I guess. Maybe I damaged the chips, but I sure was careful. I ended up having to split PPM to get past this issue until we can diagnose why it’s not working.
It was running fine with 2wd per esc smooth as hell.
But then over CAN 
I tried 3 different CAN cables first was twisted through the Minnie, second normal twisted, third twisted shielded that I ran on the RedComet Northcamp. All same result. I couldn’t really find anything online and no one else knew either. My last ditch effort was to move to FW 6.02, didn’t work, then to bump the baudrate to 1M bps, nada. Ok, maybe under load it’ll be fine and it’s just an unloaded kind of thing:
Suffice to say
Next day I knew there was only one other option split PPM. After some soldering work and a slight scare trying to do input calibration:
Fucking finally 
Never ran split PPM or loopkey before so some things imma have to get used to and confident on.
Anyways, binding isn’t on cause I might change up the look again lol. And got dem stooge hub caps. Cables need to be wrapped. And then I need time to rip it.
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I did the input on one side, and then the other one at a time swapping and using the plug that’s powering the receiver.
Yeah I suppose I could’ve done. Turn PPM off both sides, input on side with just ppm cable, turn that side off, then calibrate on side that powers receiver.
Give this loopkey STL a try.
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