that’s actually pretty impressive. 
2 Likes
This happened to my last set of motors but I’d at least have a few left. It actually took me a while to realize each motor had 2 cause I lost them a bit infrequently. Anyways stuck some longer ones in with some loctite, shouldn’t be going anywhere now.
I do wonder if this caused the slight flutter I was noticing on one of the motors due to imbalance. Maybe the pentagrams with the gorilla tape actually do work… 
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Alright, tweaked some setting and ran a bunch of bench testing. Thanks to @Evwan for bringing up this post recently.
TL;DR ramping time here was the biggest factor and I bumped it from 0.2 to 0.45 seconds.
I ran through most of these settings ramp time, Speed Ki, and high current sensing. So, read that post if you want details. Each thing I did find helped a little bug the biggest factor was ramping time. I found that Speed Ki changed it from faulting almost every pull (pin throttle) to a few times. But ultimately changing the ramp time made it so that it’s almost never faulting… on the bench at least. @poastoast and I had chatted about changing ramp time as something to try, but being able to see it on the bench gives me much more confidence. So, definitely seems to be some sort of overshooting problem, due to what who knows.
To test on the bench I lowered motor amps to 25A and ABS max to 40A/70A. 40A to test the 1.5x shooting thing and 70A to the realistic ratio I will have it at when it’s 250A ABS max.
I still think this is a controller issue because bench testing the rear I didn’t need to change anything and it’s not having issues. It’s still at 90A motor with a ramp time of 0.2 sec. FYI @YUTW123
Time for some real world testing 
… at least till I swap out the controller.
4 Likes
This seems like its curing a symptom and not the underlying issue.
My thoughts too
2 Likes
Yup agreed, still think I have a bad controller. I have a new one otw. 
I don’t get another bad one.
At least I’ll somewhat have a way to run same tests.
2 Likes
New controller came quick the stars must’ve aligned on this shipment. It’s now installed and hoping I can do some testing soon.
In order of success
- Bench testing at 25A motor 40A/70A absolute max
- TC off 70A motor hard pulls (previously this easily faults)
- Aim for sub 1.9s 20 mph pulls (previously faulted at 70k rpm)
Let’s see how far we get
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Forgot to mention at least so far motor detection is done.
8 Likes
I don’t want to give an update I’m at my wits end with this damn over current fault, but if I don’t I’d probably forget everything I tried.
The TL;DR one side has been faulting, still faulting, other side made motor go poof 
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So, where were we, new controller went in and bench test failed, already not looking good. Set positive ramp time to 0.4 and seemed ok. I wanted to go out and still try it. It was late at night but it didn’t go all that bad:
But I did fault when hitting that 0-30 time. So, bumped positive ramp time up to 0.5 and tried a few more times. Was able to hit that 0-30 time again and didn’t fault, ok didn’t seem too bad. Not good either cause I was still faulting.
Went out the next day to try to get harder pulls in and wasn’t long that I hit a fault, somewhere above 30 mph just cruising and warming up, and this time in the rear ughhhhhh, wtf. Decided to pull into a garage and do some roadside bench testing man what I saw was chilling.
This is Traction Control stuttering when the other side faults. NOPE. Immediately turned it off. This explains why I almost ate shit at I2S when I faulted the other side is braking off and on. And why I wobbled so hard vs the normal blip I usually experience. I also don’t know why but maybe TC was causing faulting cause the rear stopped faulting on the bench.
Anyways continued on with the roads side bench testing. So, dropped the rear to 85A from 90A and it free spins up fine. I decided to bump up the front to 80A to purposely cause faulting and finally learned it was just one side faulting. Cause if I held down the trigger eventually that tire would stop spinning (now that TC was off). Front right (toe side) was faulting and that’s also the side that kept easily burning out.
Things started kind of clicking in my mind (or so I thought) the over current is cause it’s sending incorrect amount of power, too much power. Cause without TC no matter of I tried putting more weight to that side it would still break traction. So, based on everything I’ve been reading it must be a bad phase connection, only on that side, ok makes sense makes sense. Time to open ‘er back up.
Lo’ and behold what did I find:
Was able to snap it off with my hand after significant force, cold solder. Ok resolder and fix it up, done. Went back to bench testing annnnnnnnnd it’s still faulting well now I’m paranoid that I just suck at soldering. Ok switch the motor sides redetect and do the tests again. Motor is fine this time and other motor is faulting. So, must be sorry solder job with phase wires. Ok resolder those use more heat annnnnd still faulting. 
Alright fine since it was bad motor phase solder job to begin with, let’s throw the old controller in. Annnnnnd still faulting same side 
. And this time the side which didn’t fault decided to poof some of that oh so sweet magic smoke (actually my first time doing this to any motors). The motors when pulling hard on the bench do sometimes stutter before smoothing out, but this time it decided to short instead I guess.
So, either I really suck at soldering one particular side of an esc or something else is happening. My current theory is this controller motor combo is not good. I have a set of old motors from the previous build that I can try, let’s see 
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All in all, I’m going fucking crazy. I’m at my wits end.
1 Like
It’s a cursed build man. Just give it to me.
1 Like
Ok my boards just completely taken apart at this point. BUUUUUUTTT small update the fault follows the remote!!! WTF!? Someone send halp.
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But seriously I’ve tried on 2 different D100S and with a puck and a ZMote. Sadly I don’t have a UART remote to try.
1 Like
I’m still in camptoomuchkv
3 Likes
good observation.
this was my first though to try. 
and my random hypothosis, perhaps there’s a slight lag that allows the remote side to hit the current spike first since the other side is driven by canbus message. seems tenuous, but maybe.
if it doesn’t happen with a uart remote. then that woudl invalidate the lag hypothesis.
2 Likes
Yup, same thought crossed my mind as well. The only odd thing is when I was running split ppm why wasn’t the rear also faulting (the side that was just getting ppm cable) or maybe it did but I didn’t notice yet.
I have some new test ideas I’ll try today.
Also, is OSRR UART? Only one I know of currently is VX4.
yes it is.
and acutally believe the vx1 can run ppm or uart as well. so. maybe the ones in between too?
Hmm ok I no longer think it’s following the PPM cable instead what I’m seeing is. The motor connected to the side with PPM when holding down the trigger will fault then stop spinning. Whereas the other motors can fault (I didn’t notice before but the ESC blinks with 2 red lights each representing the side that faulted… I think, but it helped diagnose here), but they keep spinning thus, I didn’t think they were faulting before. Tested the side which receives just CAN and it did fault if I paid close attention, but the motors kept spinning. So, it’s almost as if PPM signal fluctuates, but hard to say I don’t see anything crazy with real-time data
2 Likes
Honestly it’s hard to even say at this point
Damn I should have added going hitting some limit / too high kv as an option. Revote in a minute lol
Esk8 fam, what do you think @zero_ads problem is going to end up being?
- Faulty ESC
- Faulty motor
- Wiring issues
- Remote weirdness
- Software programming
- Hitting some limit
- Ghosts / other
0 voters
I honestly just hope I find what the issue is. I’ll see what the @Skyart candy shop has to offer.
Some things I’m going to try and pursue tomorrow dropping the Kv or if I can try a different brand motor.
3 Likes
i’ll be seein you tomorrow!
1 Like
Suggestion, run your ESCs split left to right, not front to back
What might be happening is traction control is useless when both front wheels lose grip, rpm will skyrocket and when it gain traction again it will fault due to the sudden load if you are wide open or close to it
It you make one ESC take care the left side and another one on the right, your traction control will work front to back, so unless you also lose traction on the rear, your front will be kept in check and not over spin and fault on regaining traction
If CAN ends up working you might give it a shot with traction control on all 4 wheels, but don’t know if the weird behavior that @glyphiks had with it when braking ever got fixed, so be careful
5 Likes