I do have to wonder if the 21s at high amps is what is hurting you here
Like would we see the same problems at 18s? I wonder.
I know its supposed to be capable of 21s technically, but who knows
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I think you are onto something Ryan, even at 18s the circuitry is exposed to alot more noise than builds that operate under 50v this is part of the reason Solo and Little foccer are so big, you need physical space or other effective barriers around sensative current and voltage sensing components. If these sensing components are exposed to too much interferance they will read false values and as a result vesc will throw faults and such. And the more current you pass through the system the more intense the noise is.
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Perhaps the MakerX D100s just isn’t cut out for 21s? With the rate they crank out new hardware, it doesn’t seem like they do much real world beta testing. I could be wrong - I’m just speculating.
I did 16 miles with @zero_ads the other night. Granted, I weigh less and don’t charge nearly as hard, but I am on 2wd 21s with little foccers, and I didn’t throw a single fault.
Maybe we need Jimmy to push my board and see if he can overcurrent fault it. 
Hmm that’s very interesting. To be fair, this build is on the bleeding edge of esk8. There’s probably less than 5 21s builds in the world right now, and this might be the only one on d100s
Could be. Maybe on 20s or 18s it would be incredible and actually meet the amps values? I’m not sure, but I’ve always thought in my head for whatever reason it feels like it would be easier for the escs to do their max amps at a voltage level slightly below their max rating
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@zero_ads there were two versions of the v1 pentagrams. One “standard” for 6-8" tires, and one “stepped” for use with 9" tires. You have the stepped ones.
Perhaps they can work if you print the right spacer for them, but ideally you would have the standard one, which is identical to xcell rs in dimensions.
Hubba hubs should also be very close to xcell rim dimensions (if not identical), so I’d expect those to be very good balance also.
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soon ™
that said tho… i’ve been on 21 on my 100D+ and i’ve only blown a fault once
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And TBF I also didn’t fault on that ride cause it just wasn’t as hard lol. I could try pushing your board but trying to lose traction in the rear probably harder and scarier.
The only thing here is that it’s only the front which is faulting, the rear, running more amps, isn’t faulting except for when it seemed like a power lead issue. But since then I haven’t faulted in the rear. I am starting to wonder if I have one bad controller. I could switch sides but that’ll be much more work to try later.
@ShutterShock has mentioned faulting when a wheel loses traction so similar issue here when it comes to that specific scenario.
Ahh, was the fault in the parking garage from the front wheels spinning and then catching?
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Shit forgot about that lol, yeah likely from trying to gun it up that ramp. And that was before I had TC on which I enabled the next day.
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Maybe I have too many phases on one side lol. Maybe I should try to shield from the phases. Hmm but then the phases are all lying on the rear esc…
Artem you need to build that dyno 
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21s solos wen
Anyone know if I turn off phase filters, should I be rerunning motor detection?
Yes
Alright should be easy enough to try, unlikely to get rid of the launch fault but maybe the other one.
is the why written somewhere you can link me too? my dumb model is we detect resistance and inductance and compute values from that so that shouldn’t change much? … but i know this is naive and have been meeting to understand better.
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I believe you will get different resistance values upon detection with them on or off. I think it’s also important not to restore the default parameters when you do the wizard.
Alright went to I2S today, the track setup was very fast. Few turns and then big straights. I suppose it’s more similar to what will be at AVS which is a fast track.
So, I redid detection after turning off phase filters and was running 60A motors front 90A rear. Well it didn’t take long to hit some faults and then hit another fault and almost ate shit. Took a big wobble but luckily was able to ride it out. Of course once again front is faulting. And this is the scarier one that happens down the line while gunning it out of a corner, at roughly 70k rpm is when it faults, again.
That scared me enough to lower it back down to 50A and take it easy the rest of the day. Just put in the reps on the track to get used to racing.
Other things I was trying was softer bushings in the rear and looser front trucks. I definitely liked this more still need build up ankle strength for it though. But made it very fluid to flow from corner to corner. Also, ran the BRP wheels for the first time and boy do they slide, was drifting around the track. Very different from the RS tires which feels more locked in. Got to meet @MarioChacon who was slaying it out there with the super spine. He was also talking to me about the predictability of the BRPs slides and I can kind of see that. But I need more time on them and want to see them when pushing harder.
The scare made me pretty much immediately go buy a new controller, I don’t know what’s up but would like to swap it out. Since the rear is running flawless my gut just says it’s the controller. I know I could swap sides but I really don’t want to be bothered with that.
Something I can try before that is to run unrestricted FW and just bump it to 300A and see how that goes. I’m think backup my settings, change FW, restore settings, bump absolute max. 
We’ll see.
Guess, check, risk life, rinse, and repeat.
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Ah man, it sucks to lose confidence in your board. 
new controller sorts it out!
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Another thing I was chatting with @poastoast about is changing the ramp time to maybe help reduce spikes. I’m currently at .2 secs 20% expo.
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