Seems like you and I are using the same terms very differently, so I’ll simplify:
In my opinion, ideal is “does not click/wobble in the bearing seat” AND “is user serviceable without tools.” The v2 Hoyt 5" wheels nail this, in my opinion.
This is all extremely off topic for this thread, so I’m going to stop engaging with you now.
Let me be clear so not confused:
Being able to knock a bearing out with ur thumb is not a press fit. It’s not an interference fit. It will wear away the aluminum housing. If people are too lazy to heat shrink bearings in and out they should use retaining fluid, but ur “press fit with a thumb” ain’t either
I’m done trying to explain it. Maybe a real engineer could.
For those of us that are listening to you, is there a particular retaining fluid you recommend?
Nope. Any will work. Or just put a true interference fit part in the oven to get the bearings in and out. Aluminum housing with a slide fit is going to wear down.
Gotta assess the loctite by tasting it
I imagine ur one who thinks a slide fit bearing in an aluminum housing is a good design, no?
Idk id have to look at the datasheet
Really they should be pressing in a steel sleeve with zinc plating to stop galvanic corrosion
I love how this thread has become an exercise in pedantry regarding engineering terms.
How about those defiant boards? Got that review ready @ShutterShock ?
Finally getting there, finished performance testing yesterday without breaking it, fortunately. Time to put some more miles on it over the next 2 weeks and then I’ll record the review / story
new wheels when?
I know I’m kinda late to the party, but I recently got a set of the v1 5 spoke Hoyt 5 inch hubs. The bearing seat was incredibly tight and I ended up using an air duster can upside down to chill the bearing enough that I could pound it out with a rubber mallet and screw driver. I love them (and plan to anodize them red) but they’re just kinda tight
you must’ve gone through a lot of canned air to chill the bearings. I would think the @hummieee method of using the oven would be easier no?
Less than half a can. Used the straw to keep it just on the bearing then beat the shit out of it
Ok holy shit. I’m just going to post as me for now but there are some updates.
So people are talking about the wheels. We have the designs with a factory and have been clarifying what we want and getting quotes. It’s taking forever because of time differences and schedule conflicts and answering tons of questions and waiting while multiple language barriers are penetrated for info to come back so we can go over it, but we are at the stage where we have numbers and can move forward so we’re hoping to have these within the next couple of months unless more delays happen. We do have a ton of preorders for these so we’re under a bit of pressure. We also have preorders for boards with these wheels.
The bearings on those are 608 thumb-press in. no slop, and sometimes they get jammed if they’re not in straight. The Zealous bearings we use fit super snug but aren’t really a pain to remove with an x-acto knife handle or a flat head screwdriver.
Also, the price drop. The D1 is now $1899. I was told it’s being positioned as a loss leader while we develop lower end boards with higher margins, which we are. There’s going to be a belt drive D1 with no davega, that’s the board I posted as porn in the Boardnamics thread.
We’re also looking at modding or customizing some of those open mold boards from china for the people who have less desire for precision and just want an $800 board every year or two. I have so many different feelings about that but it’s happening.
And now that the price has dropped to below cost, we’re selling boards practically every day and are still trying to iron out enclosure mass production, so there will be delays on shipments in the near future. all current board orders will be out by Tuesday but we’re about to run out and will have more coming in a couple of weeks. Once we do have factory enclosures though the deck and enclosure combo will be available in our parts store, along with basically everything else in the board because builders gonna build.
Also we have a physical retailer we’re finalizing things with. We’re still ironing things out though so I don’t want to jinx it with name dropping.
So it’s going well, but slower than I like which is usually the case.
This is beyond tempting, and the Powerglide looks like a dream to me (penu > thanes). So much so that I’ve cleared the funds from the CFO (Wife), its a matter of convincing myself I need a possible third board after having just dropped 400~ on parts to build a second 
If you’re willing/able to answer a few questions… Since I’m a pansy that needs bindings. Is it a concern of yours that someone would put or want to put bindings on the board (speaking from the perspective of the deck’s structural integrity)? Possible issues with the nuts/bolts that come through hitting or just rubbing on the battery pack? On the website you suggest aftermarket parts like handles for better ease of carrying and such - what is the warranty stance on implicating the structural integrity of the board by way of screwing stuff into/onto it that isn’t OEM?
Putting bindings on this would require maximum caution. The battery is directly below the wood on the other side of a thin pad. You’d need some of those perfectly flat and flush carriage bolts, or get some regular ones and grind the heads flat down to washer thickness, and orient them coming up from the bottom because screwing down from the top would be too risky. But it’s possible I guess with some hacking.
Thought as much, maybe I just need to nut up and learn to ride without bindings Thanks for following up @longhairedboy
you probably should have done that before you learned to ride with them
Just glue your trainers to the deck and have them as your designated skate shoes 
