Deathwish Build

Another build that I have wrapped up for the most part

Deck

  • Tomiboi Deathwish 45"
  • fiberglass top
  • carbon fiber bottom
  • dried blood red stain
  • double stack enclosure
  • custom deck spacer

Trucks

  • Hoyt Rosa Split angle
  • bushings 93A wine red Riptide
  • extended axels
  • motor pulley cover delete
  • 5 mm TPU risers

VESC

  • Ubox V2 100V vesc
  • 120 phase amps per motor
  • Weipu SA8 connectors for motor sensor wires
  • TPU gromets through deck
  • Bioboards heatsink mounted with thermal paste through deck
  • 5.5 mm bullet connectors

Battery

  • 14s8p
  • p45
  • ltt smart bms
  • charging at 15A
  • 3d modeled design
  • carbon fiber nylon printed components

Motors

  • Reacher 6495 179 KV motors
  • Boardnamics Motor Mounts

Remote

  • Hoyt Puck Remote
  • batwing case

Belt Drive

  • 16T/60T Belt Drive
  • 21 MM motor pulley
  • 24 MM Idea Wheel pulley
  • 20 mm belts on the way
  • MBS Rockstar Hub
  • CST 200mm Tires

Other

  • hardwired mounted headlights
  • hardwired brake lights - work with remote
    • brake light housing uses an expanding friction fit design inside of Hoyt
      truck handle
  • Davega
  • Radium antisink plates
  • I had Newbee Triple Link trucks on this for a few hundred miles at one point.

need to name this one as well.























17 Likes

This is badass

2 Likes

Sexy board.
Love the balance wire routing :star_struck:

1 Like

Why are all your boards so pretttty :heart_eyes:

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My guess is:

  1. 3D printing skills

  2. Esk8 builder skills

  3. Hoyt parts

3 Likes

Lol I take hyper fixation to the next level. Still have a couple things to clean up on this one. And I’d like to re grip it with something like dope grip.
Might just make my own instead though.

2 Likes

Yeah, I like how that detail came out too.

It serves a dual function to protect the series connections as well. The underside of my deck has 1/8" foam.

These balance wire separators press into the foam when the enclosure is on. That way the battery is secure and doesn’t move around, but the load isn’t being placed in the balance connectors if that makes sense

3 Likes

Really nice build and great job on the battery it looks amazing. Is the deck maybe a Tomiboi Deathtoll rather than Deathwish?

And I know it might be just what you had on hand, but if you want more power the 22S spintend is leaving a lot on the table with such powerful motors and battery compared to what a 16S one could do.

1 Like

you are totally right, it is the deathtolll haha, I have been calling it deathwish for so long without ever double checking… maybe i have a name for it now haha.

and yeah, going 14s was kinda one of my regrets with this build. (not really because it still has all the power that I need). But as far as optimizing things and pure power, I should have gone higher voltage.

I think I got caught chasing high amps. but the reality of todays super cells are that they are so potent that going 8P is really overkill. p42a, p45b, p50b, and tabless cells really can pack in the power density if you choose a higher voltage. especially since the cells are good at doing short burst, which is typically where we see amp draw in esk8. I believe the p50b is good for 140A burst for 5 seconds which is ridiculous. That would be a 1120A 5 second burst from an 8P pack which is just absurd and overkill.

I really should have gone with 22s5p or 18s6p for this pack. But hey there is always next time. maybe if i get bored ill tear this pack down and rebuild, due to the construction, it really wouldn’t be that bad.

p45b 14s8p in this pack, and 12s2p 50s in my super zealot were my two live and learn mistakes. I should have swapped the cells around lol. but in the future, i am definitely upping the voltage on this build. and probably doing 14s2p p50b on my Zealot build.

5 Likes

Both are actually a little smaller than 14s8p and I don’t think it would fit as ideally so it’s really not too bad. If you want more power from here you could probably buy a used 16S spintend and sell your 22S while breaking even, and run 50% more amps and make less heat for the power.

If you really aren’t happy with what lots of us are jealous of, if you haven’t cycled the battery much and have the space and skills you can do exactly what I did: put the Spintend in a top-mount box between the enclosure and hanger, take out heatsink (which I had epoxied in) and repair the enclosure with an aluminium or carbon fibre patch, add more groups in the enclosure in series for 16S8P, run up to 16S 100A battery 180A motor per corner.
IMG_8815
It fits super tight, like it overlaps the edge of the enclosure, and is millimetres from the hanger.

That’s a nuts setup you got there very cool. Do you have a build thread?

I think I have the skill and ingenuity to do something like that, but the board is the max weight that I want it to be. Also I think I’m done building for the season now… Maybe when the cold weather rolls around again I’ll start messing with things.

And honestly, I am just nitpicking, I think its pretty much perfect and does exactly what I need it to.

After getting all 3 of my boards completed recently, I’m going to focus more on riding this season. Not that I didn’t ride enough last season, but when I obsess over small details that take a ton of time, sometimes I wish I was just out riding. But I do love builidng too. Something about coming up with a solution to a complex problem is satisfying to me.

2 Likes

Thanks, build thread here Powertrip - a big mess of an esk8
I think you’re right to keep weight down 1.5-2kg for a slight improvement. I didn’t give it a second thought until I had to drag it even just a few hundred metres.

I understand that way too much, I have redone some stuff several times over lots of hours before getting any riding and I think it helps to kick it around with someone a bit.

As a wise man once told me

1 Like

That’s well put and so true. This dethtoll was supposed to be my flagship board (and it still pretty much is)

But my honey badger is the one I have finished more recently, and there were some tricks I have learned along the way that made the honey badger come out very well.

Specifically the phase wired grommet detail. I’ll call it my V3 detail. I like it a lot better than the V2 detail on my deathtoll. Definitely might be more waterproof and just looks a little cleaner. I kinda want to get my deatoll on the V3 grommets, but the amount of effort that would be for basically no change is just not worth it.

Also this conversation, and while building process reminds me of a post that I read early on in the hobby. I’ll probably butcher it, but it was something along the lines of “you are either a builder or a rider”. And idk, I just always think about that when my building hours start adding up to more than my riding hours. I start to think that I’m a builder haha.

Not a perfect quote and maybe there was more to it that I’m forgetting. But I just thought it was funny when I had my stock zealot I’d just always be out riding. And then when I got into diy, my boards saw a lot of bench time. I am working on keeping it balanced now hahah

2 Likes

Ahh this about sums me and my insanity up in a nutshell. I just spend thousands on weird machines to help fix said problems, or create new problems that only bigger and more expensive machines can fix… that I then need to buy

2 Likes