Ive found that tightening the case screws with the long end of the allen key, rather than the short end, means that I can not really over-tighen them due to lack of torque (since the short side of the “L” is what im gripping). Works pretty well.
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My Davega X keeps going to the black screen, and white eventually if I do not restart my board.
Sometimes it doesn’t happen at all, sometimes it happens multiple times back to back, but unless I get lucky it usually happens at least once every time I ride.
Has anyone tried adding a few extra small capacitors between 5v and GND inside the davega case? There shouldn’t be any issue with that right, and I am thinking if it’s a power delivery thing that it might help.
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It’s a known problem with some VESCs. The issue indeed seems to be the power delivery. There’s already a 100uF capacitor, which should be plenty.
What exactly do you mean by the “black screen”? That it restarts?
I can probably do a software fix for the white screen. It seems that if that happens, only the display needs to be restarted. In fact, the display already gets restarted anytime you exit the menu so if you get a white screen, pressing the middle button twice (enter and exit the menu) should fix it. You don’t need to power cycle the board. Please check if that works for you and if it does, I can add an option for restarting the display periodically or anytime you come to a stop or something like that. It’s obviously still not perfect but it would definitely remove a big deal of the annoyance.
@janpom Thanks for the tip! I’ll try the middle button twice in the future… It goes black for a good 5-10 minutes before turning white eventually.
Either way, wether it’s caps or not I figured it couldn’t hurt so I added 100uf and 2.2uf caps. If it still blanks out I’ll let you know.
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That’s a great research! Thanks a lot. Looking forward to more updates.
Going completely black is unexpected. One other hack you can try if you feel like doing more experimenting is to take 3.3V from the VESC instead of 5V and then connect the input directly to the 3.3V rail. This bypasses the internal voltage regulator, which could potentially also be the culprit.
The easiest way to do it is to solder a wire between these two pins:
Please remember that once you do this, you must no longer use 5V input, otherwise you’ll fry the MCU.
In particular, you must not connect the USB cable.
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If the problems persist, I will send you another board to test with your VESC to rule out the possibility that you have a bad board.
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I used an electric screwdriver which apparently you shouldn’t use on tiny bolts…
That’s a big uff.
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say what…
Hey you stripped threads kids (@Halbj613, @DEEIF), it’s your lucky day. I packed up the last housings from the first batch today and somehow I have two baseplates left. Not sure how that happened. There must be some folks out there riding without baseplates. 
Anyway, if you want them, you can have them. There’s one black and one raw. PM me if interested. First come first serve.
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Thank you! I pm’ed you!
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BTW, if anyone needs an extra screen protector, I have spares now.
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Rather not, he’s too fast and furious? 
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dont worry pmed last night and paid
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For the 3.3v rail setup, I need to swap the 5v pin connector to somewhere else on the VESC, and then bridge those connections on the Davega, correct? Or just bridge the connections… ?
A bit of riding with the caps in there and at least it doesn’t seem to hurt, but still getting black then white screens… your trick to press the middle button works though, no more restarting the board for me! An extra little detail- the screen restarting seems to happen much less on a full charge and more often the lower I get (10S). @janpom do you suspect the 3.3v rail directly would help solve this, I think you said it was something with the screen… as an electronics noob beyond soldering connections I’ll leave the critical thinking here up to you 
You keep the connector where it is. You just unpin the 5V wire and put it into the 3.3V slot, which is right next to the 5V.
You don’t change anything on DAVEGA wrt the connector. You will end up the with the following:
DAVEGA VESC
5V <---> 3.3V
GND <---> GND
RX <---> RX
TX <---> TX
Note that if you connect the 5V and 3.3V on DAVEGA, the pin labeled 5V effectively becomes 3.3V.
That’s good news. It means it’s solvable by software to some extent by re-initializing the display every now and then. I’ll implement a preference for that and will then ask you to test it.
That’s interesting. I guess this supports the hypothesis that the problem is in the 5V supply from the VESC, which is sometimes unable to support both the DAVEGA MCU and display.
It seems that in your case the problem is that the display restarts as a result of a sudden voltage drop / power cutout. Switching to 3.3V actually probably won’t help here. You can still try for science.
This is very valuable info. Don’t be afraid to experiment. I’ll send you another piece of electronics tomorrow so that you’re covered in case something goes wrong. 
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@janpom are you sure that the 3.3V reg on VESC can handle the load of an ESP32 with Wifi and a TFT screen ?
No rethoric, just asking. 
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May depend on a VESC but I tested that on my FOCBOX and it worked.
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Perfect !
IIRC Vedder changed the 3.3V LDO only on the VESC6+ (or MKIII ?).
Specs have to be checked but should be the same Amp rating tho.
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