The ebay link is cheaper (without shipping tho), and dickiho is a nice dude 
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Oh, I didnt even check that link. I just do a bulk purchase every once in a while on aliexpress and always throw a few in my cart
I’ve found an aliexpress store that sells daly bms for cheap (10/11 dollars for the 15/20A version)
it’s here
EDIT : This is for LiFePo not Liion !
That’s 12s LiFePo4, not Li-Ion.
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You’re right, dumbass me
Temp monitor?
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Not sure but unlikely, this is not a smart BMS
I have seen plenty of dumb BMS with temp sensor. They can turn off the discharge based on a preset temp.
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Definitely a temp sensor.
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any diagrams of a bypass daly 10s common port with charge port?
Got no diagram but hopefully pics will help. The main negative is on the bottom right, and it goes in a S pattern. Blue wire goes to the main negative, and the black wire on the BMS goes to your charge port. Positive from the main B11 goes straight to your charge port
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I have like 15 or so small Daly 12s liion/LiPo bms’ I can sell. They’re really tiny (2.5” x 2”) 8amp charge 15amp discharge (so probably use as charge only). Asking $25 including shipping, $30 if you don’t want to do friends and family on PayPal.
Very dodgy to add 5 dollars to avoid paypal security, take a look here to get the real price with paypal’s fee
Didn’t know about that. So then I should ask for $27.09 if I’m understanding this correctly?
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Is there a way to hack… er… modify the “dumb” daly bms’s in order for us to inspect things like voltages, and to insure they are balancing? If not directly, is there an external device that would simply let us peer into the packs to make sure everything is copesetic? Please excuse my ignorance on the matter, just trying to learn as much as possible.
No, the standard BMSs dont have any sort of communication ports for gathering that information from.
A multimeter? Measuring individual p-group voltages at the balance port isnt that hard, but it does require opening your enclosure. Checking up on your battery’s health is a standard maintenance thing anyway, so it’s a good idea to do whenever you have your enclosure open.
As far as a dedicated device, I’m sure it’s possible but at that point you may as well buy a SmartBMS as you will be spending just as much (if not more) on the standard BMS + monitoring device. It would also probably take up just as much (if not more) room in the enclosure as a SmartBMS.
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Some of these “dumb” bms’s use SH367309 chip that has i2c communication. It appears that smartBMS one’s have that and additional MCU that translates i2c to UART/CAN. Than with “Sinowealth BMS Tool” app it is possible to configure and read a lot of stuff.
The one Battery_Mooch posted pictures before is like that and there is a 5 pin programming port at the top in one of the photos that should have i2c pins.
I tried to order 14s one from aliexpress thinking that it will have that chip, but insted it had “dumb” SH367008X.
Also datasheet for SH367309, it’s in chinese but google translate does a good job.
SH367309 CV1.1A.pdf (2.1 MB)
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For a 10S5P 30Q pack, would most here recommend a “charge only” BMS or discharge as well?
I see there are many different Daly stores and I’m need of a little assistance finding the correct one on AliExpress. Preferably one with an E-Switch (like in the link below).
If I had to guess, it would be the separate separate port for charge/discharge version?, however I don’t see any with E-Switches as an option.
My project got sidelined for far too long. The last time I researched BMS tech, I remember this Bestech being a popular option:
HCX-D223V1 (S8261-G3P) 10S Li-ion PCM Charging Current 20A Discharging Current 80A with E-Switch Over Current Detection 150A+/-20A
I (and most others on this forum) recommend a charge-only BMS. Running the full pack current through the BMS is a really bad idea, even if you think you are buying a BMS that is rated for it.
@GnomeMeansNo put it really beautifully in a recent post: Would you be comfortable installing a system in your car that cut your brake lines if you press the brake pedal too hard?
If you are wiring your BMS charge-only, then the e-switch is going to do nothing (since your ESC is being powered straight from the battery, the BMS has no ability to cut off power to it). You would need
either an external antispark switch, a loop key, or an ESC with a built in switching function like the Stormcore.
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