Can I just use the bms for balancing and to see the voltages through the Bluetooth, so only connect the balance wires and leave the rest? I can’t figure out the rest from the pic and wonder if I need to.
The esc has a 5v and 12v port already
I
u can, no one is stopping u, but since we are on the topic of bms, the primary function of bms is to stop charging if something goes wrong, be it cell gets too hot / cell voltage too high…etc. bms is there to balance out all the pgroup voltage, so when u charge to full, each pgroup will be charge to their max voltage.
without a bms in place, charger will only stop when the whole pack reach the charger voltage, if one of ur pgroup is faulty or degraded, then u could have it charged slower than others, or way faster than other pgroup, then u will have fireworks.
I’ll be watching like a hawk while charging.
The Bluetooth can still work if I just connect the balance wires?
idk, i don’t use daly bms. but i heard the davega team is able to access the daly data via canbus
What’s going on in the blue circles? It looks like the balance plug is put in series with the main leads or something.
I don’t have a B+
Anyone have a pic of their bms being bypassed during discharge they could post? I’m not seeing how the drawing plays out in reality @b264
This is a terrible idea. Just charge through a BMS. It’s actually a big safety risk not to.
B+ is the [most] positive wire from the battery. The big fat red one. Typically a BMS won’t need this, they will often have a small balance wire that connects to the same place.
So I have the balance plugs from the battery going to the bms, simple
And I have the main negative going from the battery and contacting B- and then going on to the esc
And the battery main positive from
The battery contacting the one most positive balance wire and then going on to the esc?
I’m hoping that Cell 13 reading is wrong because it could catch fire if actually at that high a voltage.
ur p12 and p13 balance wires are swapped, resolder them in the correct place
That or they’re broken (wires/solder joint)
yea im hoping the reading for 13 is wrong as well. This just started happening out of nowhere. Ill double check the balance wires as soon as i can. I checked again and 13 is now at 4.6 with 12 at 3.6
Can anyone confirm if I’m seeing this discharge bypass right:
the main negative going from the battery, contacting B- and then going on to the esc.
the battery main positive from the battery contacting the one most positive balance wire and then going on to the esc?
Seems so but want to make sure. I’ve never hooked up a bms before
What’s the maximum amps possible to charge through a daly 33s lifepo4 bms? In the settings it shows 90 amps as a possibility.
, made me do a triple take. Checks out.
Can you post pics of that your charging setup looks like?
My cycle satiator and chargery 4012 dont complete balancing on this pack. Going to swap Daly basic for Daly smart and see what’s actually going on.
Don’t have any pics. Just the common charge-only thing and smart bms
In the past I always used discharge balancers or that active balancer u have
The orange ones? Those two are still both in regular service . Thanks btw.
A smart bms with a wireless smart phone app, two smart chargers, and a smartass user, what could wrong here? lol, I need make a smart GPT powered agent to intervene.
I’ve got an anemic p group that hits 3.65 and triggers over voltage before balancing kicks in.
For a123 lifepo cells, is 3.75 okay for single cell over voltage protection?
You know, if there is a bad group, those server battery modules are cheaper than the cost of new fish paper, shrink wrap, garolite and nickel. But you already knew this.
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I was looking for a123s last night but can’t find any sources that have anything with as much capacity as I could in the past. You know of any?
I think safety wise 3.75 is ok. I charge slow enough my 3.6v max is good and I only charge to what amounts to 3.55 a cell anyway.
I meant that balancer at the bottom of ur pic, I still use those on one vehicle
