This looks very promising
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My buddy picked one of these up with a bunch of upgrades unused for 300 and 12 rolls of fillament 
he knew I wanted one for esk8 and he wanted one to makes figurines to paint and sell so he’s going to be setting it up at my place. I basically got a free ender 
what a glorious start to the new year!
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So the temp tower failed after about 80 layers. I went out for takeout and came back to a spaghetti mess. The layers that did print look great, just lost adhesion.
One thing I did notice, the base of the temp tower is supposed to be .4mm and mine is .6mm. Now when I do my bed leveling the paper rubs between the nozzle and glass lightly. Should I make it more snug or should I change z offset settings? Is there any difference?
Hi, what’s the difference what does the upgrade do?
(The controller)
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Biggest thing you’ll notice first is how silent the ender runs after the board upgrade.
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Yea what @Skunk said. Almost silent stepper motors, but it’s upgrading from an 8 bit processor (stock) to a 32 bit processor.
It can process g code a lot smoother and faster. There are a ton of other Marlin features you can activate to, also have uart coms on your stepper drivers
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When printing with a brim, does the print work from the outside in then? I’m having trouble with prints that want to make screw holes first then the nozzle ends up knocking them around after the first layer of a circle. Damn things just won’t stay put.
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Slow down first couple of layers drastically ~10mm/sec That will make sure it sticks. Been there, done that.
Great thanks
No code should do the skirt brim raft first of that piese
If yor nocking off parts you printed you having adeshion issues. Lots of YouTube videos on that. Personally for the first few layered I up the bed temp slow the print down and apply direction change aceliration
My first layer speed is currently 15mms, this morning I upped the initial bed temp to 70 and cools to 60 after 4 layers. Had a print pop off the bed after 3 hours last night😖 not having any luck. Had a few pieces on the bed to make a fang parts cooler I stayed up till one am checking on it and watching and adjusting, figured it would have a fighting chance after being ok for 3 hours, went to bed and it must have popped off immediately as the print looked very similar to when I left it. It ran for a few hours air printing.
Do you guys use z hop? Would that help keep the nozzle from sliding into pieces?
I have it left off. What bed are you using? I slow down the first layer and keep the fan off for it. Try moving your nozzle a hair closer to the bed. It might not be getting squished down enough.
Glass mirror with and without gluestick, fan is off for the first 4. I switched to a feeler gauge to try and get the most consistent leveling, I was not feeling great about paper leveling inconsistencies in tension. I’m going to grab some alcohol and give it a really good cleaning and try again.
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Keep us posted and good luck
Was about to suggest IPA. Has a issue after the first 15 prints cleaned with water (to get glue stick off) then IPA was good after that for me.
Check bed levels and flat at printing temps not just cold.
What you printing size and what meterial.
Have you checked flowrate is accurate?
Try a higher first layer squish and a higher inishsl flowrate. Runing out of tings after that
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Bed leveled at temp, multiple times around each leveling various positions. I even measured a layer with calipers a few times to see if I could get it accurate with the first layer cura settings .20
Petg
Having better luck this morning. Only changes were the bed temp bump for initial layer, and I turned down the fan a bit more. I didn’t even clean the bed just smeared some more glue on.
Hmm maybe the cooling parts I am currently printing will fix that problem, it seems the hot end cooling fan is blowing too much past the heat sink and stringing off the back