I’ve wondered this many times.
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Haven’t measured that, but their power loss should be very low. They have a smaller cross section (maybe 1mm diameter), but they are also very short (maybe 0.1mm) and therefore don’t have much resistance. With these numbers and pure nickel, you’d end up with R = 7e-2 * 0.1e-3 / (PI * 1 ^2 / 4) = 8.9 microOhms per weld.
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Thanks! Makes sense that the resistance of the metal would be extremely low.
But can we always assume zero ohm connection resistances to the cell (only referring to good welds)?
I ask because a single weld at 8.9uOhms would have a voltage drop of only 267uV at 30A and a power loss of about 8mW. We’d only need a single spot weld for just about any cell connection.
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Good question, but I think that it is safe to say that a weld that sticks (causes nickel strip to tear apart when pulling) will also be more or less be solid metal. I’m not a spot welding mass production expert myself, but it is my understanding that you make multiple spot welds for extra rigidity, and to cover situations where a bad weld is overlooked.
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The one at the top here is the most up to date one. At this point in time it’s got 14 edits
If you have any test results, let us know so we can take those data into account as well.
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I would love to but unfortunately I don’t have the means to 
On another note, I don’t see any listing for 0.2mm x 10mm nickel; are there any estimates as of yet?
added
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Just wanted to show appreciation to the keywords here. Search on this forum is so shit, so this really helps.
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So how would Stranded Copper Silver coated wire compare for use from ESC to Motor (phase wires only)
provided Cable flex is not and issue this should in turn result in less heat to the motor (though the motor is still copper wound)
Silver coated copper won’t help much, if any. Copper coated silver wire would help, but the amount of help would probably be marginal at best.
It’d be better if the windings were silver instead of the phase wires, because that’s where the heat gets trapped more. The phase wires don’t overheat as much as they have a lot more airflow.
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In my case there’s nearly no airflow for the phase wires, so just looking at it from scientific vs pratical for now.
Copper Coated Silver exsists heh?
And pure Silver stranded? (aware it needs somethig to prevent degrading) - Marginal gains are fine - been long term doing marginal gains thruout mysetup over time it’s not so marginal anymore when all added up.
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Not sure if it exists.
Silver has a lower resistance and is the best conductor, but it oxidizes badly. It’s the best conductor, but not for surfaces.
Gold is the best conductor for surfaces as it doesn’t oxidize or corrode. So, in theory, gold-plated silver would be the best wire you could make at room temperature. Copper coated silver would be better than silver, as copper corrodes more slowly than silver.
If you really want to go down that route, gold plated silver is the best.
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to confirm i understand it correctly
Silver being the best conductor by a far amount vs Gold.
The aim in using it on Phase leads would be to get the most effeciant power transfer and fastest to the motors (since i run hubs only - which lean on the hotter side, any reduction i can do to reduce the heat buildup in the can - before it reaches the can should be benifical. also since as metal heats up, resistance increases.
Agreed that silver windings would be the best - but not an option for me currently.
I feel like simply using a motor with a bigger stator would be a lot more beneficial.
AKA swapping a 6374 for a 6380, et cetera
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You dident catch my comment on being on HUBS i see 7065
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Well then go four wheel drive for best results 
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Nothing is wrong with results as they are - looking for improvements on my next build. same format - Only 2 hubs.
Ive read all over most say silvers not worth it without a real basis on if it’s better or not.
Since hubs Hold alot of heat - Any heat mitigation should result in at the very least a delay in the heat buildup. hence silver wire between VESC and motor seemed to be the best area i could tackle. The best of course being the motor itself but maybe 2021 i’ll try to wind my own motor.
finding suppliers for these items is tricky so just looking to confirm before extensive searching
I believe @hummieee has seriously considered using silver windings, and if he’s opting out, then I’d say it’s probably not worth doing. He tends to focus on quality above all else, cost included.
Maybe he can drop some thoughts on this.
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