Lucky me, i reset all the settings and its working again!! When seeing the DRV fault i tought i have to take out the heat gun and replace the chip.
I will put another controller in a aluminium case tomorrow, maybe its just this one that has this problem.
If i want to get my boards done and ready to go right away next week i should probably order those boxes or try and find some from the local suspects (home depot, lowes, hardware/electric supply). These results appear to be better than the 4.20 FLESC (non-plus) which makes me super stoked to get this set up.
Noob question maybe, 70a motor or battery?
Edit: Looks like motor
I like this breakdown and feel good to be part of market B, almost exclusively.
Market E, the dad, wants toys but has to be frugal about the spending. Is the in for the “best bang for the buck” market, doesn’t want the cheapest but doesn’t want to go all out.
@doomy i never tested this FOCer at this high of current. What is the max battery amps value for your setting?
Battery and motor amps are at 100A firmware limit. I use the vesc tool and direction keys to test different amps.
I will do some more tests tomorrow, higher than 130A absolute max for example…
Wow. Good luck and stay safe. FYI I didn’t design this controller to handle that high of currents. Let me know what part explodes 
With the hw no limit firmware as well?
I could run 120A motor max without issues with that fw.
No, i did not try the no limits firmware yet. I first want to get the motor running stable at 100A.
I don’t understand everything totally, but the absolute max current setting in the standard fw is 130 or 150A. If you run 100A motor and batt max than you could hit that limit which result in funky strange behavior or cut out. Maybe to try the no limit fw and set the absolute max to 200A?
On v4 hardware I always found I needed to set absolute max current really high to avoid over current faults. I guess its just the limitation of the 2 low side shunt amplifiers on board the drv?
@doomy good to hear your drv is still alive. What do you mean when you say you disabled the OC protection?
There is an option to configure OC protection, but apparently thats only for the DRV8301 and i think thats what caused the DRV error.
My understanding is that you’re going to need the ST-Link to burn the bootloader, once thats finished you can write the firmware through the Vesc-Tool or whatever other means are needed for 3.5 (or older) firmware.
I found it. You can use another vesc like I described in my question.
Thats pretty cool I didnt know that this was even a thing - Because the cheap FOCer is designed to be a 1:1 replacement i cant imagine that it wouldnt work. @shaman would need to chime in here on this.
@Prism give it a shot. I’ve never programmed a VESC with another VESC. If it doesn’t work, the other way I know to flash the bootloader is with an st-link.
Just testet it. Works perfectly.
FOC detection with FW 3.56 and a Turnigy SK3 3674 168kV
