I’m just getting ready to plug my bluetooth module into the CFOC2 control port and I noticed the RX & TX pins appear to be reversed from the VESC.
I’m wondering if they really are reversed, or whether this is an error in the README.MD file?
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The outside of the cap is actually ground which is the same as the top layer of the DC link area that it is sitting on. It’s low risk but I would recommend applying some silicone around the caps to secure them
Probably. It will be held in place with some adhesive to keep it from moving around.
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I’m pretty sure this diagram is correct. @NuRxG has already alerted on the reversed order. I have it in the que to fix for v1.0 release.
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Any chance of getting a bit more space around some of the SMD components that need to be hand soldered? Slightly bigger pads would make life easier as well.
There is not a lot of space between the cap that has to be soldered and other components around the DRV chip.
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Yes. I’m using that pinout and reading UART data now.
Sorry, I had missed that.
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Yeah that’s kind of ideal from an electronics standpoint. Decoupling caps are supposed to be close to the IC. The best I might be able to do here in enlarge the pads
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Nah you didn’t. This was over PM
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For what it’s worth, I think you also have the pins starting from the opposite end of the connector if I recall correctly. Not a big deal at all, just slightly less compatible with the off-the-shelf Vesc’s.
Just moments ago, I took my two-wheeler out for its first test ride with my new CFOC2. I just finished getting the UART to talk to my dashboard. Took it up to about 26mph (which is all I dare when riding around in shorts).
I also checked for heating at L1 and D6. I’m running 10S and didn’t feel any heat there. I’ll be curious to see what’s learned about that.
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If you haven’t soldered headers yet, or care a lot, you can try attaching them upside down. Or make an adapter cable (actually i should do that).
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Good tip. I have already put the headers on, and I don’t actually care that much. Just trying to do my little bitty part to point out things Shaman might care to change in future revs.
That would be great, soldering C15 was the most difficult of the SMD components. C17 is really close (i had to resolder it with hot air twice) and the pad facing D6 has a high thermal capacity. So you have to position the cap really well before soldering the other side.
C31 is better, probably because of less theremal capacity on the pads and more space.
I also struggled with the pad spacing, could do with an extra millimetre on some of the components.
I found the USB port the hardest to hand solder, it’s freaking tiny. Anyone got any tips?
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Solder paste and 400c air on the pads then tweezer drop it in place
I don’t have air, just old school iron. Maybe I should buy a station - would be handy
Yup - the USB port was surprisingly tricky. If you don’t want to go with solder paste and hot air, flux and a pointy tip work.
A basic soldering station will change your life. I spent 40+ years with one of those damn Radio Shack wood burners. I then bought a pretty basic Hakko station and have never looked back.
Also, got a cheap hot air station. There are some things you won’t be able to do even with the best iron - like the IMU chip.
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Did not find the USB port especially hard to solder (even without flux), maybe bacause i used a different version?
I first soldered the pins, checked the alignment and then soldered the two holder pads.
Doesn’t the vesc 6 design break out 3 x adc to the UART port?
I have a pretty good iron, need to get a reflow station though. Ill have a look for that one in the UK. Thanks mate
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