So after a few pm’s about the cross brace on my evo build I decided to share this with you all as I had it all apart for cleaning on the kitchen table. (sorry dear).
Its a simple but effective idea using readily available parts you should be able to source locally wherever you are. My shopping was done in Aus.
Here goes;
You will need;
6mm stainless threaded rod -
10mm x 1mm (wall thickness) aluminium tube Local hardware (Bunnings)
2 x 8mm sleeved axles from a scooter
4 608 bearings and speed rings/washers Local skate/scooter shop
Clamp your mount plates together on the bench and work out where you want the bearing to sit. This is important because stupid me drilled out for dual idlers and then realised too late that they were too close together but all good it works fine with single. Drill an 8mm hole for the axle to go through. Clamping them together ensures that the holes will line up perfectly when you assemble it all.
Measure the distance between the inside face of your mounts at the trucks and then cut the tube to that dimension trying to get a nice square cut. This face will be sitting on the mount face so the squarer the better.
Cut the threaded rod to the same dimension.
Then basically all you are doing now is bolting it all together with some blue loctite and tensioning your belts. Use a speed ring on the inside bearing, the one closest to the mount and you’re done.
Anyone who has experienced tb mounts coming loose will love this. They stay rock solid and the torque from both motors will transfer to the road much more efficiently as the whole thing is now effectively one unit.
Hope its helpful and to everyone who pm’d me sorry it took so long.
its probably not the best idea, and only possible with small motor pulley (this one is 13t), but to my defense it is running completely true and no grinding on the bearings - and i guess bonus points for moving along with the motor when you tighten the belts
So let me get this straight. You have used an extended m3 motor mount bolt to utilise 608 idler bearings? Without a reducing bush? And then when I look closer you have extended the motor plate fixings with hex sockets.
this still stays flexible alltough the nut is cranked down, the washers keep the bearings aligned…
they can still move “up and down”, the belt pushes them into position… i hope that explanation makes sense
and the washers are small enough that in whatever position the bearings are, they cant rub on the outer ring
but like i said this only has enough room to work with a 13t pulley or smaller, would need modifications otherwise
