I always found the dampers to be overkill, even at higher speeds. Might be useful offroad or smthn i donno. I use freeboard bindings, can make real tight turns if i have to.
Edit:responded to wrong person crap
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It’s all good, I do it all the time.
I did wanna respond though because bindings. I didn’t even think about bindings. I run bindings in my Beast Mode build too, it’s also very turny.
I wonder if you can make a channel truck street build turny like TKPs with out bindings? Interesting anyways.
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I’m not the most experienced with trucks but there are basically 2 parameters :
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the pivot angle which determines the lean/steer relationship
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the RTC (return to center) which determines how much you can lean the deck and steer…but it depends a lot of your bindings . That’s why mtb uses straps or even boots on boards like Nosno.
Carveboards use channel trucks/very low RTC/no binding and is a great carver…but also a wobble machine…
On the other hand, Nosno are great freeriding boards but you need to make small jumps to make tight turns.
Back to the same old problem between maniability and stability…
PS: deck length is also a parameter.
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That would be a nice end goal! I’ll see if i can drill a hole on the angled riser and see if it can fit in the inner position, and then figure out what to do next.
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I think there was someone on the other forum that removed some material from their elastomer barrels to make them more carvey? I need to go look for it…
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I you ask me, I’d swap the trucks for a set of RKP 200mm Surfrodz, you will be really happy
I’m pretty sure the perfect carver truck would be a 16in wide TKP truck with zero degree base plates (+/- 10 degrees, front or back). I would buy the hell out of that, especially precision and polished or anodized.
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If you manage to use inner spring position it would be best. I have elastomere dampers on inner position without bindings and it carves like a dream (had springs with yellow dampers before, not a big difference). For outer position bindings are a must IMO.
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Dis.
Damn near. But throw your egg dampeners in the river, all springs, front/rear inner position. And you better have legs chiseled from marble if you want to hold that shit steady above 25 haha.
I’ve found dampeners in front OR rear always makes turning radius larger because they restrict the RTC range.
IMO Damps are for rigs with bindings, or high speed setups on spring trucks. I’ll run red damps in the rear springs of my Kaly Helical Carver build as it tops around 40mph. All springs = more fun tho
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noted
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I just want the 3GD
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Pre-Orders already sold out bro. For the next 9 batches.
That’s how esk8 pre-orders work now.
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“But I’m sooo down to test. I almost have all the parts for my first board and I would be a great test subject I think”
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“I haven’t built an esk8 yet but would love to beta test 100V motor controllers. I do a mean unboxing video though”
bonus round:
“My names Kellen and I bought an OSRR to ‘beta test lol’ but I’m too ascared of the wifi-beams to use it for more than a forum-trophy.”
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Countersink the inner spring position on the base plate, drop in some barrels and your board can win the next slalom competition.
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Can you send me one of those so I can break it?
Like, I’ll actually use it as my only remote until I break it.
Unless it’s too big for my baby hands. In that case, I’ll use it as TP in these trying times.
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Sooo… question. For better/easier turning should I remove these risers? This is my first diy. Still learning shit and not too familiar with channel trucks. Trucks are the cheap aliexpress trucks 20201226_212933|666x500
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