This is what I’ve got on my board
works brilliantly
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Same here. As with me integrating wireless charging pads into my boards and remotes. It’s one of those “wow I have a great idea” for a problem that happens seldomly.
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You might want to add capacitors to these buck converters, they are really ripply
That’s not the correct one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8UTRJA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
this one is better for 10S and 12S esk8 use
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There it is. I didn’t look closely.
I thought it was hilarious you warned about choosing the wrong one, and then linked the wrong one 
I had to get the correct link in the thread
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By the way, that one also has mounting holes which are easy to overlook as a trivial detail — until you need to mount it in your enclosure. The other ones are a “wrap in fishpaper and packing foam and toss it in there” mounting style. Works, but 
Here’s an example of one without mounting holes
This is a CC/CV one as well, the other is a CV
CC/CV = continuous current / continuous voltage
CV = continuous voltage
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Always when people ask my this… I just tell buy a powerbank to charge your phone & remote. If you want lights then a buck converter is something to go for. I use a 60v -> 12v 3A for my lights.
Who wants now less range?
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Lights have another use, besides allowing others to see you & reducing your range [by a tiny amount].
In certain circuits, like this one for example:
BMS bypassed with loopkey and discharging with lights/accessories circuit
The lights also act as a mine canary — if they shut down while you are riding, then you have a serious battery problem and need to pull over and shutdown immediately. But this is without cutting your brakes or shutting down your drivetrain.
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Anyone every measured the actual Amps they pull out of these? Because if the data pins don’t get the correct voltage depending on the device it will fall back to 0,5A charging. I’m looking to charge at 1.5 to 2.1A
but this way you have to be running the bms on charge and discharge, right?
No, that is a Bypass wiring
The lights are connected to discharge, if present. The ESC is not though; it’s connected straight to the battery.
OK, let me see if I understand. I connect the lights to the bms discharge, and this can help me drain the load, but in turn do I connect the battery with a switch so that I can turn them on when I need it?
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The loopkey is the switch
It turns on the lights and the ESC
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I think I already understand a little better, but then if you wanted to turn on the lights separately from the esc you couldn’t do it this way, right?
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While I do understand using anything with a light as a flashlight I don’t see why the ESCs would need to be off while you do that.
I do not want the escs off while the light is on, rather I do not want to always have the lights on when the esc is on
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I use these on every build they are bullet proof, 12s and outputs 4 amp enough for 288 RGB LEDs, and I break out a water proof USB to the side of the enclosure. Using a USB male to male cable.
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oh hmm right, Guess the lights need their own switch after all.
How you get that to connect to whatever remote idk. I think manual switches on the deck are good enough for just getting the job done.
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Just put a small rocker switch in series with the lights then
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