Carvons v4 need help fixing

Not used that specific diagram but imagine it’s right.
With ur motor likely wound dlrk let’s say it has 9 turns or loops around each tooth. All would likely be the same 9 and hopefully balanced. Although u can wind more or less on a tooth if balanced at the other side of the stator. Anyway u have 9 turns around each tooth and ultimately 18 turns in the slot. 9
From each side. With lrk you’d just wind 18 on every other tooth for same inductance.

Besides having a higher “winding factor” at .96 vs dlrk w .94, which amounts to a better magnetic circuit, it seems to be easier to get more copper on in my experience. It’s also fail proof in winding in that u just get as much on a tooth and don’t have to consider room for the winding beside. It’s also more fault proof and could save ur collar bone in having the magnet wire phases isolated from each other avoiding possible phase to phase disaster shorting from vibrations between phases with a measly two layers of Magnet wire insulation between. Yikes.

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this makes me wanna rewind 2 motors I just retired on the Zenith

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Really u should get the stator off to make it easier. But that’s another nut too. Winding easier with it off but u can wind with the motor bearing tube still in the stator

so in essence you’re saying use the same gauge motor wire, but twice the length and twice the wraps??? how’s that effect kV?

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Think would end up about the same length (less transits between teeth so maybe bit less w lrk, but the lrk has thick stack of windings and longer distance per “turn”. The thickness is a downside to lrk and good for long motors like we use as the thick stack creates more “end turns” at edge of tooth. )
Same gauge, (about) same length, same turns equals same kv. 18 turns on one tooth same as 9 on two. U can do it with very thin wire first to test how many turns u want to get kv

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thanks buddy! that’s about what I was thinking… let me see if I can get these st00pid windings off with at least one phase intact to get some measurements!!

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U don’t need to keep it intact and rip it off just don’t pull off the top n bottom laminates of the stator. Then wind a really thin easy to wind wire quickly To get measurement of kv and go from there.

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I just want to get a rough idea about the length and the number of wraps as a starting point…

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I do 9 per tooth. Or 18 per slot. They’re 70kv. Less turns is higher kv.

Length for me is about 35 feet per phase.

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thanks

@ what gauge of wire?

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Anyone know how to get the stator off the truck

If I can get it off it would be really useful
Also is there a way to do this while still keeping hall sensors?

Yup!

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You gonna explain the setup to me or am I gonna have to cry myself to sleep

it’s fucking huge ass gear puller… you ain’t getting the motor off the axle without it… you’ll destroy the motor beating on it with a hammer…

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How did you hold the truck like that and where on the truck do you pull

Did you pull of that black thing at the back?
Also what screws need to be removed

@Halbj613 if you wanna cut your losses, I would take these for $100 as-is to give a go at rewinding both sides, thought ide throw that out there

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As in you would pay me 100$ for them or you would charge 100$ to rewind?

pay you $100 for them

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you’re in way over your pay grade kiddo… I’d take @Scepterr’s offer…

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No sorry

If I were to sell I would want maybe like £150 to cut my losses

Otherwise may as well give a go at rewinding worst case ruin some motors

I know these are real noob questions @kook but everyone has to start somewhere

Thanks if you can help