wound almost as nice as yours bro
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Here’s the vid of my wheels ,see one stops before the other ,is this ok ? https://esk8-news-objects.s3.dualstack.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/uploads/original/3X/f/5/f5104a3bbc031ac2881569684486fe8c9cdd415d.MOV
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Ahh cool I’ve just posted a vid but yeh it’s only a tiny bit different to the feel ref resistance
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That is not uncommon. Could be different tolerances/resistance in the bearings. Evens out over time
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For sure. If I end up going with this deck I’d probably run a plate over truck mount to tie it all together with a little extra reinforcement
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[quote=“Dareno, post:66, topic:15364”]
wound almost as nice as yours bro
[/quote]
It’s neat but empty. Bet if u rewound it u could get like 25% more copper in the slot which would equate up like 23% better motor. And there’s tons of room for the end turns so u could do the whoop ass LRK winding.
@Fozworth69 thanks. 18 teeth. Can u please show the rotor too?
wound almost as nice as yours bro
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It’s neat but empty. Bet if u rewound it u could get like 25% more copper in the slot which would equate up like 23% better motor. And there’s tons of room for the end turns so u could do the whoop ass LRK winding.
@Fozworth69 thanks. 18 teeth. Can u please show the rotor too?
If u spin it on the bldc tool u can get the phase resistance and inductance and then we’d know how much torque to heat it produces and we can compare to any other electric motor
U know the dimensions?
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/scheme/calculator/
It has more cogging steps than the standard 12n14p so less cogging torque n easier roll but lower winding factor so bit less efficient w that combo
The pics are of the LRK winding. (Be same numbers either way)
Oo I take that back and the super typical DLRK winding is a lower winding factor than the LRK w every other tooth wound. And for sure u can get more copper in w LRK.
Weird that the 12n14p is different winding factor (kinda the magnetic circuit efficiency) w the lrk and also dlrk.
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But you will lose the bustin griptape! Skinning the top doesn’t do a great deal for strength, the bottom plies do a lot more work.
If I were you, I would just add the two extra plies to the bottom. It will be easier for you, possibly stronger (especially if you add glass or carbon) and you’ll get to keep the bustin grip 
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Linoleum is a great stiffener rarely done on a deck. Roarocket.com sells it. u could get it at a flooring place. Bit heavier but hard to screw up gluing it on and trimming the edge.
Spin the bearings w motor unassembled and see if some have more resistance. Maybe when u assemble the c clip is compressing them. I assume they’re all slide on and couldn’t be damaged during assembly
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yeah it is. essentially this:
http://www.diyeboard.com/v11-dual-belt-motor-sine-wave-foc-esc-speed-controller-p-522.html
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I wanna do something else with it. And may rout the top to flush mount the baseplate. I’m also thinking about burning some aluminum there to strengthen the truck mount. Maybe a custom laser engraving for the top Between grip tape hex
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Wow, really neat construction, single strand wires, really well done windings, but it appears that we could fit a bit more copper 
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It’s the only single strand winding I’ve seen done on this forum.
The copper volume almost decides the power ability and efficiency when it comes to the motors we use.
that motor and all the end turn space is dying to be rewound lrk w massively bulbous copper mounds. a fat ass of copper. Way sexier
Act now
If u Record the resistance and inductance and send it to me I’d rewind it for the challenge to see how much better I could make it. (U get whatever kv it ends up but I’d shoot for the same)
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I think the differing resistant roll rates are fine, my cheap hub board does that as well, yet i’ve no problems ride wise
This has totally lost me but hopfully as time goes on I will learn a bit . My hub is back together now so not going to be stripping it off unless it fails especially as one of the inner mounting plate bolt threads is not great due to the fact it won’t nip up like the rest .that in its self pissed me off as I’ve waited two weeks for a replacement sleeve as the one that came on the board had a stripped thread on one of the outer mounting holes .I hope to perhaps get it rethreaded although if you see the pic there’s not much meat around the hole to do so .any ideas ?
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I have a YoFace hybrid coming in from the Blem sale.
I am game for this!
A more powerful motor would give me a good reason to exchange their ESC and Battery for a VESC and some 30Q or 40T.
When the time comes would you be able to help me with figuring out the correct upgrades to make my board better quality as far as the electronics go .Obviously it hopfully won’t be for some time but it’s good to know I’m covered when that time comes .
Best
Ja
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Why in the world?! Dongguan QC
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Sorry Spade was that aimed at me ? I didn’t understand your reply ?
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If u strip the motor of wire and the stator is still intact/undamaged with no exposed steel and beforehand u also recorded the resistance and inductance I’ll do it.
@Fozworth69 u could tap the hole for bigger threads. Bigger screw
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Looking forward to it
Mellow is single strand also, or was, don’t know if they are still in business, but I would say it was one the best engineered hubs I’ve seen so far
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