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Bushing Help! (and some rolling resistance questions)

So I have just completed my first DIY board, coming from a boosted stealth. I didnt like the lack of range, and I swapped the pulleys for higher speed, but torque took a massive trade off. I went with a FocBox unity, dual 6384 motors, the torqueboards 218 trucks and pneumatic wheel kit and a evo falcon. 12s6p battery made of 40t cells. Its a monster. The issue I had on my first ride on the board was getting up to 25 mph, and getting wobbles, so I let go of throttle and instantly eat shit hard because of the sudden deceleration of the board. How do I reduce the rolling resistance on pneumatic wheels?
The other question I have is bushings. I know squat about them, and i need some help. I am around 150lbs and want stability at speeds, while still being able to have enough maneuverability to get around a college campus. I dont mind tightening before I do a speed run, but if there is a way to get something that i can set up and just forget about, it would be ideal.
Thanks for the help in advance!

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@RipTideSports sports is the best in da biz for bushings hands down. He’ll get you sorted!

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So @RipTideSports is the big bushings guy here

I think the harder the bushing (they are measured with the symbol ‘a’) the better it is for speed (at least that’s what I think)

Also make sure your belts aren’t to tight as that can reduce rolling resistance
Or if you use idlers then that can be a problem to

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What @Halbj613 said is true until a certain point. Say, if I at 105 pounds where to ride Rkp trucks with 99a bushings it would just be complete shit. I would not be able to turn and the board would be driving me around which leads to me leaning to far and tumbling off at 30mph.

Tell @RipTideSports/Brad your weight, height, trucks, and what bushings are in the board right now and he should be able to get you pretty sorted from their!

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You guys should really tune in to this thread: Bushing and Truck Setup Help Offered

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@Craftycamper, can you tell me what trucks you have and their base plate angles? Are you an experienced analog skater? Posting some pictures would be good so I can see what we are up against!

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@RipTideSports I am using Torqueboards 218 trucks, im not sure what the base plate angle for those is, but they are completely stock. I am using an Evo Falcon, which has angles where the trucks mount.


Theres a photo of the board when it was being built, but it shows the trucks well enough.
I am not very experienced with analog skating, but I have about 250 miles on my boosted board, stock bushings.

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Sick looking ride! Normally TB-218 come with 50 degree base plates so your end result is a 60/40 degree split adding the deck’s angles. Are the trucks currently equipped with a cone / barrel set up? If so, for now, put the barrels in the back and the cones in the front and give that a try. Ideally I think you should change out the base plates for 44 degree ones so you will have a 54 / 34 split and add some new bushings and the pivot cups we make for them.
.

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If the angle is the same as my little Evo then I think the split is 65/35… I could be wrong though!

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@RipTideSports Ill try running barrels in the back and cones up front, where would I find the 44 degree baseplates? I would prefer to change bushings before stepping up to the baseplate changes solely because ive dumped more money than I would like to into this board as a college student and want to try some cheaper options first.

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I gave you the first option. Does it have Cones / Barrels? Sorry, just reread! Try the repositioning of the bushings and be careful to watch for wheel bite when you make any changes. I don’t mean to be snappy…it has been a long day

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So, i went on a 4-5 mile ride today after putting barrels on the back and cones up front. It definitely feels a lot better to ride at high speeds, and feels way more stable while still being maneuverable. It just feels a bit dead to ride, its hard to describe. @RipTideSports

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you need a higher rebound bushing… mine felt the same, wooden, before @RipTideSports and I had a go at tuning in the bushings… now she is lively and “pops” coming off a hard carve…

EDIT:

and as you’ve learned… don’t wing the throttle or chop it suddenly… wacky things will happen…

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OK, cool, glad that helped. I suggest the following to get the most for the least $. Replace the pivot cups with Caliber II WFB 96a and run a Cone / FatCone front and a Cone / Chubby rear in APS 87.5a (Hope you like Pink!). For a little $ more you can get KranK 87a in the same shapes and they have a bit more rebound and adjustability when compared to APS. If you don’t wnat to order three pairs of bushings to get the 3 shapes, just put a note on the order to mix a pair of Chubbys to make a Chubby / FatCone pair. The pivot cups I mentioned above make a big difference in smoothing out the turning.

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Can you elaborate more on how rebound and maximum lean compare on APS, WFB, and KranK?

I know APS and WFB have higher than usual lean but does KranK give that up for adjustability?

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KranK leans nearly as much as APS but it ramps up in resistance faster. This is why on a lot of my KranK set ups I have them just tight enough to take all the rattle and slop out of the stack. This allows me to have a relatively loose setup in the center for changing direction quickly yet I can dive in deep when I commit to a turn and it will still support me as hit the depth of the lean I am going for.

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So APS will still have a more surfy feel to them?

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Yes, I would say so but KranK really supports a deep carve well depending on how you set them up. APS is extremely popular in disciplines that involve pumping like LDP

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