So I have just completed my first DIY board, coming from a boosted stealth. I didnt like the lack of range, and I swapped the pulleys for higher speed, but torque took a massive trade off. I went with a FocBox unity, dual 6384 motors, the torqueboards 218 trucks and pneumatic wheel kit and a evo falcon. 12s6p battery made of 40t cells. Its a monster. The issue I had on my first ride on the board was getting up to 25 mph, and getting wobbles, so I let go of throttle and instantly eat shit hard because of the sudden deceleration of the board. How do I reduce the rolling resistance on pneumatic wheels?
The other question I have is bushings. I know squat about them, and i need some help. I am around 150lbs and want stability at speeds, while still being able to have enough maneuverability to get around a college campus. I dont mind tightening before I do a speed run, but if there is a way to get something that i can set up and just forget about, it would be ideal.
Thanks for the help in advance!
@RipTideSports sports is the best in da biz for bushings hands down. Heāll get you sorted!
So @RipTideSports is the big bushings guy here
I think the harder the bushing (they are measured with the symbol āaā) the better it is for speed (at least thatās what I think)
Also make sure your belts arenāt to tight as that can reduce rolling resistance
Or if you use idlers then that can be a problem to
What @Halbj613 said is true until a certain point. Say, if I at 105 pounds where to ride Rkp trucks with 99a bushings it would just be complete shit. I would not be able to turn and the board would be driving me around which leads to me leaning to far and tumbling off at 30mph.
Tell @RipTideSports/Brad your weight, height, trucks, and what bushings are in the board right now and he should be able to get you pretty sorted from their!
@Craftycamper, can you tell me what trucks you have and their base plate angles? Are you an experienced analog skater? Posting some pictures would be good so I can see what we are up against!
@RipTideSports I am using Torqueboards 218 trucks, im not sure what the base plate angle for those is, but they are completely stock. I am using an Evo Falcon, which has angles where the trucks mount.
Theres a photo of the board when it was being built, but it shows the trucks well enough.
I am not very experienced with analog skating, but I have about 250 miles on my boosted board, stock bushings.
Sick looking ride! Normally TB-218 come with 50 degree base plates so your end result is a 60/40 degree split adding the deckās angles. Are the trucks currently equipped with a cone / barrel set up? If so, for now, put the barrels in the back and the cones in the front and give that a try. Ideally I think you should change out the base plates for 44 degree ones so you will have a 54 / 34 split and add some new bushings and the pivot cups we make for them.
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If the angle is the same as my little Evo then I think the split is 65/35ā¦ I could be wrong though!
@RipTideSports Ill try running barrels in the back and cones up front, where would I find the 44 degree baseplates? I would prefer to change bushings before stepping up to the baseplate changes solely because ive dumped more money than I would like to into this board as a college student and want to try some cheaper options first.
I gave you the first option. Does it have Cones / Barrels? Sorry, just reread! Try the repositioning of the bushings and be careful to watch for wheel bite when you make any changes. I donāt mean to be snappyā¦it has been a long day
So, i went on a 4-5 mile ride today after putting barrels on the back and cones up front. It definitely feels a lot better to ride at high speeds, and feels way more stable while still being maneuverable. It just feels a bit dead to ride, its hard to describe. @RipTideSports
you need a higher rebound bushingā¦ mine felt the same, wooden, before @RipTideSports and I had a go at tuning in the bushingsā¦ now she is lively and āpopsā coming off a hard carveā¦
EDIT:
and as youāve learnedā¦ donāt wing the throttle or chop it suddenlyā¦ wacky things will happenā¦
OK, cool, glad that helped. I suggest the following to get the most for the least $. Replace the pivot cups with Caliber II WFB 96a and run a Cone / FatCone front and a Cone / Chubby rear in APS 87.5a (Hope you like Pink!). For a little $ more you can get KranK 87a in the same shapes and they have a bit more rebound and adjustability when compared to APS. If you donāt wnat to order three pairs of bushings to get the 3 shapes, just put a note on the order to mix a pair of Chubbys to make a Chubby / FatCone pair. The pivot cups I mentioned above make a big difference in smoothing out the turning.
Can you elaborate more on how rebound and maximum lean compare on APS, WFB, and KranK?
I know APS and WFB have higher than usual lean but does KranK give that up for adjustability?
KranK leans nearly as much as APS but it ramps up in resistance faster. This is why on a lot of my KranK set ups I have them just tight enough to take all the rattle and slop out of the stack. This allows me to have a relatively loose setup in the center for changing direction quickly yet I can dive in deep when I commit to a turn and it will still support me as hit the depth of the lean I am going for.
So APS will still have a more surfy feel to them?
Yes, I would say so but KranK really supports a deep carve well depending on how you set them up. APS is extremely popular in disciplines that involve pumping like LDP