I read this several times but I am not exactly sure what your question is. I might just be dense tonight, sorry.
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Anyone know what bushing setup I should run for a 50/30 split?
Better definition of restriction meaning the depth of the seat and itās overall wall profile.
Some of that depth is for assembly and centering bushings that donāt have steps for slop elimination around the kingpin. Which is part of what you are saying is unnecessary if you put more pivot constraints on the hanger itself.
Question is if there if another reason we are missing to have the bushing seats have centering features for barrels.
I donāt see how there would be another factor beside it being needed for elimination of steering slop from TKP/rkp. Just moving away from the traditional design still slowly.
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Iād like to imagine the bushings resistance/force is applied through the pivot axis of the hanger so you have a different shape bushing effectively. Possible benefits for hanger misalignment resistance I canāt see downsides besides needing softer bushings for the same rebound vs pkp kingpins axis parallel.
Hi, no worries. The height of the bushings that came with the Zeus baseplate is 1.5 cm.
i used the regular krank bushings for my zeus. Green front/purple rear. Barrels
Iāve now rotated my trucks to a 45/0 setup and Iām kind of liking it but have no idea what to do about bushings now.
Currently using:
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whatever grey bushing comes with boardnamics trucks on roadside front.
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Whatever baby blue bushing was on my bear grizzly 2019 trucks on boardside front
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Both barrel bushings with cupped washers boardside front.
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Boardnamics gray boardside back, barrel with flat washer
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Riptide yellow roadside back, come with cupped washer.
What is a 45/90 setup?
The rear truck pivot axis is in line with the deck and the front pivot axis is about 45 degrees off of the deck, treating the deck as X axis
OK so that is a 45/0 setup. You will need much stiffer or larger bushings in the back to compensate for the high leverage the rear zero degree truck exerts on the bushings compared to the front. For now, do the bite test to determine the hardest pair of bushings you have and put them in the back with cup washers and take the softest pair you have and put them up front with flat washers just to get a data point to adjust from.
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Ok now Iām using 2x baby blue bushing from bear grizzly trucks on front and an evolve black boardside rear and a Riptide krank yellow roadside rear
No idea what a KranK yellow might be but eventually we should figure put exactly what you have and get all RipTides in there
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Idk itās Riptide yellow and it came with a krank promotional card
Just tried 45/0 and idk if I like it. Iām not too used to my trucks feeling so weak in the turning and rebound but then over like 40kph it all of a sudden gets really stable and controllable.
I might tilt my rear truck more, or change bushings, or both idk
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Interesting, please take a picture so I can see what you are referring to. A zero rear can feel a bit dead. Try 10 to 15 degrees
Yeah I didnāt like it so I went to the next hole up, I think thatās 10 or 15.
I also brought the front down to the next hole which isā¦ Idk rn. Iāll add pics in the morning.
Also swapped a bear blue for a BN grey, whatever bushings those actually are.
The Boardnamics light grey is KranK 93a
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Is the Krank Chubby bushing secondary step supposed to fit into to the stepped bushing seat of my Caliber II trucks?
The secondary step is too big to fit snugly into the bushing seat so it doesnāt seem to reduce any more slop than a regular barrel bushing.
Is there a way to address this?
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The chubby was first designed for Randal trucks and they also fit Caliber seats for the most part but Caliber has pretty wide tolerances and cannot even get their primary and secondary seat circles concentric. The slop does not effect much especially if you have a tight fitting bushing in the roadside seat. You can also flip the Caliber hangers and the Chubby may fit better in one seat than the other. Another approach is to run the fat end of the Chubby towards the hanger and use a cup washer on the stepped side of the bushing against the base plate.
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How important is getting the proper alignment of the hanger pivot onto the axis of the pivot cup? Basically using tall bushings compressed on a base meant for standard .6" height.
I would guess just getting proper bushing preload being the issue but acceptable amounts of pivot misalignment and the issues possibly coming from poor alignment is what Iām wanting to know more on.
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