@RipTideSports I can’t find it again, but what is the ideal “tightness” for the king pin nut? Nut flush against the kingpin + 2 turns?
In a dual king pin setup, is it better to keep both kingpins around the same tightness? Or would it be better to make one king pin tighter and more stable, and the other one to do most the work in turning?
I am running dkp’s on my build on an evo. And this is meant to be a high speed board so stability is more important that turnability. a turning radius that just clears a small no lane street would suffice. (not scientific measurement I know)
Would it also be better in my case to have the back truck slightly tighter than the front?
Hey @murdomeek there is no ideal except for perhaps Ronin but even in those trucks there is some leeway. The starting point for our bushings is just tight enough to take all the rattle out of the stack.
Regarding DKP’s on an Evo I will be speaking from ignorance since I have never seen or ridden one and I can see little justification for this combination. Evo’s are designed to use mid to low degree RKP trucks so you end up with a fairly highly split degree set up.
I am not even sure how to measure a TKP let alone a DKP in regards to it’s base plate angle because it is the differential between the pivot axis and the king pin axis that define their motion.
All that being said I would consider what you are doing to be a very tricky and dangerous setup to go fast on. You will need to take the write up I did on DKP truck theory and set up and create a higher differential than DKP’s on a flat board. That means even softer in the front and harder in the back to compensate for the new leverage points.
This is a long winded answer but I will try to extrapolate what I mean.
This is a Evolve solution mounted to a flat deck:
“I have worked on several Evolve boards in the past when people have asked us for a nimble yet stable at high speed setup. This is what I found for Evolve “compound” trucks:
For simplicity, I will refer to the bushing positions from roadside to boardside so for the front, F1 is the bushing closest to the road in the front and F4 is the bushing closest to the deck in the front, rear will be the same just designated R1-R4. Also, the position 1-2 are the primary turning pair and position 3-4 are the secondary turning pair.
Front truck
F1: KranK 90a ShortStreetCone (.4” tall)
F2: KranK 90a Barrel (.6" tall)
F3: KranK 93a ShortStreetBarrel (.4" tall)
F4: KranK 93a Barrel (.6" tall)
Rear Truck
R1: KranK 93a ShortStreetCone (.4" tall)
R2: KranK 93a Barrel (.6" tall)
R3: KranK 93a ShortStreetBarrel (.4" tall)
R4: KranK 93a Barrel (.6" tall)
I weigh just about 200 lbs and this worked well for me as well as my son that weighs 140 lbs. We found the key to settling down the trucks for high speed situations is to keep the pair of bushings closest to the deck (F3-4 and R3-4) stiffer than the bushings closer to the road (F1-2 and R1-2) and the front easier to turn than the rear. The primary pair should initiate the turn, then the secondary pair should come into play when needed or wanted. I hope this is not too confusing as there is a lot going on with these trucks. The way we have it setup currently, you can run full speed all day and still have a lot of turn when needed, so agility and stability. "
one question that i forgot to ask last time, will sz tkp’s accept krank magnum bushings? i wondered about that since i learned about the chubby not fitting
Hi Brad,
I applied your split angle teachings and my setup got much better.
How would you approach an adjustable baseplate angle in addition to the other stuff? Do you pick your angle first and then go from there? Seems like one extra variable makes the system and the relationship between everything 10 times more complicated.
We developed our KranK compound to help address adjustable setups within reason. Adjustable base plates are very useful when dialing in a new setup that you want for a particular use. Adjustable base plates are not really meant to be jacked with after you find a setting you like. Once you have the turn dynamics decided upon, you adjust the bushings to suit the base plate angles you decided on. It helps to have a selection of bushings to work with.
Brad,
First of all I’ like to thank you for this thread and the detailed answers you give… This thread has helped me so much, not only to get my es8s to work, but with your answers I’ve been able to unfuck some stuff myself thanks to reading and comprehending…
I had a weird set-up and it just wouldn’t turn… but I took my box of bushings and washers out, took out a precision washer that was interfering with the hanger, flipped up cup washer upside down and bingo… turny… turny carvy carvy…
took a boardside barrel out and put in a cone… and I’m 1/2 way there…
Thanks for your help so far. Like already mentioned you’ve saved me one a ton of googling and secondly your advice has probably helped me from wiping out a few times. I come back with a potentially dumb question.
When configuring you’re bushings does AWD play a factor in how you adjust the setup? If so in what way? This would be in addition to an asymmetrical deck but we don’t need to worry about that since I can just apply those difference separately.
Not a dumb question. All whee drive does not seem affect bushing setup as much as front wheel drive compared to rear wheel drive does so for all wheel drive I would set it up as I would a rear wheel drive. I had the pleasure or testing a BioBoard Thorium for a week and through extensive testing found the same setup as a non powered and a rear wheel drive set up.
i really think you should start with this for anyone to be able to help