What in the… I have never seen a bustin sportster in that manner - is this like version 1 of the deck? Very stealthy looking!
It’s the pro.
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Version 1? It was from ‘16 or ‘17. Originally had a lion on it.
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Looks like a super clean build! What are your plans to make this pack capable of handling the 180A discharge that these cells (in 4p) can deliver?
(I realize that the 45A discharge number from molicel’s datasheet is a little inflated. Mooch rates these cells for 30A continuous. I have my 12s4p build setup to draw 140A total, but its a NESE pack which has been tested and demonstrated to handle 200A continuous.)
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If they’re 42As it’s not about the connections, it’s the cell. At above 30 amp draw they were getting above 80*C on continuous pulls. That’s a single cell ventilated on a bench. Multiply that by 48 and pack then together and you could have a very warm battery. Will hurt cell life drastically. Granted, not always pulling full continuous discharge, but that’s why he rated them lower.
35 per cell would be good data to post if you have a batt temp sensor.
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I understand all that, my question for @eBoosted still stands. I was asking about how he plans to make the parallel and series connections robust enough to handle the current, even if its only 120A. Thats still a lot of current for some thin strips of nickel.
Edit: @bwahl602, thats good info that more people should know as these cells become more popular. Thank you for sharing it.
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Misunderstood your question entirely! I’m planning to use these cells so I’m interested as well.
The more I look at it the more I wanna skip building an enclosure and have this 
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To be honest, I use my 12s4p pack with 21700 30Ts at 120A of battery discharge and riding the board at full throttle is almost impossible, you need to be leaning really forward to avoid falling back, but if you do this any decceleration could make make you fall forward.
The only cimcumstance you will need more than 120A would be on a MTB or if you want to ride and accelerate pretty agressively on a very hilly area, otherwise 120A is already way too much for an urban board with pneumatics
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Good info too, but still not answering the question i asked 
In your picture, all im seeing is single strips of nickel waiting for series connections. Im wondering what strategy you are going to use so that this pack can deliver max amps (whether that is 120 or 180 or whatever) without the nickel getting hot/ burning up.
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Wouldn’t doubt it. Those cells drained at 20-25ea is still a lot and will have a nice long service life and stay cool. That’s what I’m leaning toward.
I would never connect P-groups with nickel strips, first because the enclosure is flexible so nickel strips would brake in the first ride, second because of the high currents. In this case I’d use 2 silicone 14AWG wires to connect them.
Unless you want a rocket ship… this is what I’m running with the pack you built me settings per unity. AWD setup.
Solid 210A batt max lol
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I see amp charts everywhere that say 14g is rated to 20-30 amps. They never list the length that’s tested at. I’m guessing 1m? So we have lots of headroom given these connections are 3-6 inches long. Just sort of talking that out. I was surprised by 14, but it totally makes sense. Main battery cables?
The conections are 1" tops between pgroups.
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I made some progress on my Sporster build today:
Installed two stainless steel hexagon plates:
One on the front for the charge port:
One on the rear for the on/off switch:
I’ll use flexible plastic duct tube with rubber grommets to connect them to the enclosure later.
My wheels pullies were held at the Postal Service which is at the moment closed due to the Pandemic.
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Fantastic wok on this enclosure
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@eBoosted hey man, love your bustin. Do you have any pics of the hmmmmm or vids of how flexible the deck is with that enclosure on it?
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