A friend of mine fried her BBV3 ESC and with the company now gonnered she was wondering if there would be a way to replace the ESC without spending ~400 on a BBS esc. She wants to use the original enclosure/ one that looks the same with another ESC. I was wondering what would fit in the enclosure and what the best course of action would be? The research I’ve done so far is unclear on whether you can use the battery without a BMS bypass etc and I can’t tell if most reuse the enclosure.
If you plan on reusing the deck, @eBoosted makes an enclosure for the loaded vanguard.
What do the motor cable connectors look like and are you OK with soldering?
Hey @Cloveh, good on you for trying to help a friend out. I hope all goes well in this endeavor. However, I am pretty sure that you will need some sort of BMS bypass to use the battery without a Boosted Board esc. When I measured the terminals on my Boosted Rev’s battery it read 0V’s at a full charge (I checked this multiple times with two different multimeters). I think that the Boosted Board V2 and V3 are the same way, but hopefully someone on here can attest to that.
My advice assuming what I said above is correct is one of four options.
- See if someone that fixes ESC’s in the forum or a professional electronics repair person can fix it for a reasonable price.
- Look to buy a broken BBV3’s ESC.
- Replace the ESC with another one that someone here on the forum can recommend and bypass the Boosted Board Battery’s BMS.
Note: If anyone is going to recommend an alternative ESC that fits in the current enclosure do you think you could find out the dimensions of the ESC so they can figure out what will fit in it? Also the I am not exactly sure what you meant by use a bypass for the BMS but you could always disconnect the current Boosted Board one and connect another appropriate BMS for the cells. This way you could still use the battery enclosure and cells.
- Is the same as the third but replacing the battery completely with a different BMS, housing, and other cells. So your friend could get additional range. This will most likely be over $400
All of these options will need you to do a little groundwork to figure out the best option. Yet,I am sure that one of these will be a decent option for your friend. Please update us on what your friend decides or if you or she figures out something else.
Also, please anyone reading this that can second or oppose my suggestion please do so.
Hey @Venom121212, this is what the motor connector looks like. Also here is link to the ones I bought from AliExpress. I have tried buying some at a cheaper price through Alibaba, but the companies I have found that sell them on their either say go to their AliExpress account for the quantity I requested. Or they will never finalize the order for me to purchase the items. So just buy though AliExpress. Lol.
Male and Female
Male and Pin Layout
Make sure to insert cables with arrows facing each other
Made from Julet
Good find! That’s all the I info you need to rewire these to a standard jst terminal like all the escs we use here are. I have a random ownboard esc that uses those 9 pin higo connectors as well. They might work with no modification but you’ll be forced to use their remote as well.
The escs most of us are using are programmable so you can change throttle curves, current settings, brakes etc. It’s well worth crimping those wires to be able to use a better esc in my opinion
Wow thank you for the reply! Ill keep looking for a bypass. Unfortunately from what I’ve found no-one really fixes boosted ESCs yet at least for a reasonable price. Thanks for all the info!!
Hey dude, you ever get the blinking light narrowed down to the esc or the bms (or both)?
Buddy has a boosted xr battery doing this same thing and I’m trying to help him out.
What lights are blinking? There are some boosted guru’s fixing the batteries now. If its the 80%(4th light up) then it’s an RLOD which is repairable these days.
Not sure which way is top or bottom to them but here is what I know
Turning the board on and plugging in the charger makes it do this:
But I can get it to blink just this one light green with the board off and plugged in if I regen it for about 5 minutes.
Really the first issue is how much they glue the battery in. Impossible to remove from case without damaging the enclosure.
I’ve been going at it for a week with little progress. Got the ok from the dude to trash the enclosure if it means the battery might be ok still.
Thats a rlod, there are a couple options. 1 pay someone to clear it( I don’t think you want to deal with which
Or 2, get an Amnesia chip put in which allows you to clear the rlod with the push of a button if it ever happens again.
@poastoast has done one Amnesia chip, and isn’t too far from you. Otherwise there are specialists that do a service for a bit more than poast would.
Unless you’re good at circuit board level shit, I wouldn’t deal with it. And as you found, half the battle is getting into the damn enclosure.
Hopefully the toast man can chime in when he’s free. Meanwhile I will look into the amnesia chip and see how hard it is. I have all the basic tools for pcb fixing so we’ll see.
Good shit, good luck! I had 3 boosted batteries do this in a year. It’s a bs way they dealt with unbalanced cells.
Instead of balancing, it just bricked it.
Poast said he’ll pop on in a couple hrs, otherwise hit him up on telegram
All this shit has crushed the resale value of these boards. Even when boosted still existed I’d tell people to get a nice chinese board because at least those don’t lock you out of everything.
Yeah, hearing the boosted guys claim you can’t just swap a new battery in or the system won’t accept it was nuts. I had to Google it later and sure enough, not compatible without extra steps.
ah! so sorry, i forgot. ya, i’m free! i’m trying to contact the guy that sells the chips, but he hasn’t answered yet
Keep me posted dude. Have you been able to get the battery out of the enclosure without breaking the enclosure? Sucker is in there.
Also wonder why they don’t just replace the esc if that’s where the rlod is being thrown from. Any idea if an esc swap would be an easier solution?
It’s the battery throwing the fault. They have the bms/esc interconnected so much they are useless by themselves. You can’t put in a vesc, you can’t use another battery. They were the apple of esk8 for a reason.
ye, battery’s not too bad to remove
rlod comes frlm the bms, and the original way to remove it was witha special circuit back at boosted hq that no one’s allowed to use cause Lime
I’ve got a exway flex esc… haha might do the trick… never ridden a boosted but hear hey are pretty similar…