As others have suggested in this thread, you can buy something like a Backfire Zealot and swap all the components onto the Boosted deck. That will be the easiest and one of the more cost effective methods. It’ll basically be a new board.
Otherwise, feel free to scroll this thread to see @cucu’s attempt at a more DIY-esque rebuild. 
Allright! we’re back in business. I was out of town for a few days but now we’re going to pick this up.
Before leaving I did get to spend a bit more time on the case… I sort of started from scratch, didn’t like the previous design and some measurements were off. I know, I’m overthinking it, it’s a simple enclosure that needs to hold the pack. I can’t help it but we’re almost ready to print. We’re going to have a small top hatch for easy reach of the charge and balance leads to be able to charge it up with an external balance charger when needed (until the BMS arrives).
Only question left before tidying it up and printing it, is where to put the loop key connector. It will likely be somewhere in the front of the enclosure but not sure yet. It need to be easily accessible but away from potential snags while riding…
Oh yeah, one more thing… is there any “alternative” similar to fishpaper? I don’t think any retailers have this nearby and I’d like to get started on the pack sooner that I could get some delievered.
Is having the loopkey plug towards the front a really bad idea?
I would’ve liked a different place, not to have the loopkey peppered with rocks or random stuff from the ground while riding but I really can’t find another suitable spot. I do want to keep it on the battery case, not on the vesc end.
That’s it, I’m done. I’ve spent way more time with this box than needed. The loopkey socket will stay in the front and we have a charge port mount too. The bottom will have a slight curve to match the board profile. It’s all drawn up with the idea of printing in one piece, with the “top” of the box on the print bed, without any supports. On a quick look it will take about 12 hours for the main part plus some more for the lids.
The BMS showed up today. Nice surprise, I thought it would take longer.
Nothing else in the box, just the BMS. It’s somewhat obvious how I will need to connect everything but I would’ve liked a manual or some sort of diagram/pinout for this particular model.
Let me see if I got this right:
Does this make sense?
Not sure about the loopkey. I found that some say to put it on the negative lead and some on the positive. Does it matter?
I can’t find any reference on what the red/black pair marked on the top left of the BMS pic are. Any ideas?
Loop key on the front should be fine. You could print a handle for it too that could help keep it protected. It doesn’t matter if you put it on the positive or negative. Last one I did I did it on the positive.
The red/black pair of wires circled in green is for an on/off switch for the BMS itself.
Interesting. Is it like a momentary switch I need to connect or it’s fixed closed/open?
Considering I’d use it for charging only, it would probably be good to keep it switched off when running the thing…
Mean time, finally we started printing the box. Fingers crossed it works out, we’ll see in about 10 hours:
Latching/fixed.
If you don’t plug it in its not used
Not used as in BMS is always on? Does this mean that if the two wires are connected, the BMS will be off?
The box is coming along nicely, quite a few more hours to go. In the mean time I started cleaning up the cells from the original pack and I’ll start prepping them for the new layout. I’ll post some pics later.
Made some progress with the pack. I got a roll of fish paper from a local electronics store so we can finally finish this.
I wanted a bit more insulation on the negative ends (as mentioned above a few times, A123s are “reversed”) so I started with that. Not particularly fun process to cut all the little rings but it worked out fine. I also hot-glued the parallel pairs.
We’ll put the pack together tomorrow.
we have a battery case!
In hindsight, I would’ve probably designed a few parts differently, suited better for printing. Some of the overhangs aren’t perfect but it won’t be noticeable.
The lids tomorrow, must sleep now!
It’s a momentary switch. It toggles the BMS on and off. If using the BMS for discharge it can work like a power button for the device.
Yeah, I don’t use the LLT power button. I’m able to connect to my BMS at all times when it’s in range, so I’m assuming that means it’s always on. I have a big enough battery that the drain isn’t really a concern.
Momentary switches only remain in the on position while being held down, where as latching switches ‘latch’ on, and or off when actuated.
If the two wires are connected, the BMS will always be on. At least, I think so. It could be the other way around, though. I’m about to hook one up, and I can let you know.
edit: It probably is reversed. I doubt they’d build some sort of sensor into the port that detected whether or not a switch was connected, and so it’s likely always on until the circuit is completed. Which kind of bums me out since I didn’t order a button that functions like that. I wonder what a switch like that is even called.
Hmm, it might be called a ‘push-to-break’ or ‘normally closed’ latching switch, aka SPST normally closed, latching switch.
edit #2: holyshit this is confusing.
You might be right. It might actually take a momentary switch. That may be all it takes to cycle.
