Good looks, I can imagine how long it took you to get it that consistent!
3 Likes
Found a warm minute, clear coat done and dry.
Did the deck swap and went over every inch for torque and glue refresh so nothing needs doing.
That’s done, it’s done. Looked up my recipts for the solos and deck & enclosure and im calling that the start… may 2023.
Less than two years ¯_(ツ)_/¯
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Must be blissful. You’ve put so much work into the board, and it shows!
Congrats
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It is, even though ive put it through its paces and wrecked it once it feels like a new thing. Took me a second or two to stand on it and start getting it scuffed up 
. That first scratch feeling
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You did such a good job on this, looks great!
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Thanks man! It’s such a huge relief to get it all together and that last little finish on it. Carefully rode it around my basement for a little loop, need some dry weather and some dirt on it now. The frit feels really good but just a little too sticky - it’ll soften up once i get some mileage on it though 
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This thing is amazing dude.
Great work.
I really hope you enjoy riding it!!!
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Cherry on top : swapped out the blue side switch zmote for a new green shell and modified the pcb a smidge (cut off a corner) and put the older style snap switch. Much better 
10 Likes
So i sold my tomiboi build to a new esk8 convert, loaned him one of my old hub boards to tryout and see if it’s something he likes and he’s hooked. He wanted me to make something like the bog roosh but a little more budget and sanity friendly, and literally described the specs and features of the tomiboi. The tomiboi had become my go to loaner for intermediate skill loaners but he twisted my elbow and he’s riding the crap out of it again and that makes me happy. BUT on the last mile of the test ride with him the bog roosh started acting up like it lost sensors and hitting abs over current faults. 
Ordered a new motor from @Skyart and forgot about how close the timing was for esk8con but Artem came through with some last second next day shipping so i could fix and test before heading to the con. While i was waiting i got the dumb idea to just try and repair the busted winding…
But it didn’t work, still making weirdness. Nbd because the new motor showed ip quick af.
Got er all fixed up but got an idea to fix the spacing problem with reachers and the 4gs drives.
If you don’t know - the shoulder of the reacher motor shaft sits more proud than on cheaper motors and interferes with the pinyon gear position. If you do nothing it keeps the pinyon’s angular thrust bearing from seating on the drive housing by the tiniest amount and can cause two things: 1 the pinyon can contact the drive case and bind on the cover. 2 the gap lets the side thrust created by the helical gear transfer to the motor axle instead of to the gear case - wearing out wave spring and possibly damaging the rotors circlip and possibly the motor bearings.
The fix is to add a spacer between the motor and the motor mount to eat up that little bit of length and then everything sits nicely… but for no particular reason i just don’t like this. What if the pinyon just fit instead?
Used a big ass counter sink bit and it works like a champ
I also found out the blue 6pin connectors dont work without the long ass strain relief part that i cut off to save space. The abs overcurrent fault i was getting from the motor also got my full attention to how it was launching and it wasn’t doing great. Kept losing sensors on one or the other motor so i changed both to the standard “long ass cables through a single gland” instead of the connectors as a pass through.
Running like a dream again
So my log shows 126a so p=i*e gets me 9450w 
7 Likes
oof, i’ve been there before. The best thing to prevent it happening again is to glue the windings together to stop them from vibrating, I’m sure there’s lots of things for it but red insulating varnish is what I can vouch for. Best applied with a disposable squeezy dropper thing or a syringe.
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I use a putty epoxy similar to the kind used to secure the windings at the connection to the wire and it seems to be ok. Haven’t noticed any increase in temps or anything but enamel seems like a better choice.
On a different note i got a set of singularity bushings in 93a from @RipTideSports at eks8con im testing and so far they seem like the ticket.
Settled on the b/c shape with light preload and pulled the front wedge out. Is at 35f20r now. Weather should clear up for the next few days so im gonna give them a test.
Fsr i lost sensors on the last day of the con. No particular reason i can think of so im gonna open things up this weekend. Just running shfi for now un calibrated - works but needs tuning if i was to stick with it but im sure i can fix the sensors. Just dont wanna deal with it atm
4 Likes
Tbh, I initially ran my build with sHFI without any tuning and they’re pretty good. Not 100% Seattle ready, but as long as you’re not starting on any super steep hills you’re probably be fine. It’s perfectly rideable as long as you’re not doing launches.
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Fixing the base of the wires is good, but I meant hardening the windings. I stopped getting motors burning up on me since I started doing that. Idk if it’s vibration, or just grit getting inside and wearing away the enamel, but the varnish definitely helps
6 Likes
This epoxy putty starts off very soft and i push it into all the joints, definitely not the same depth of coverage but an attempt at the same thing. Definitely going to get some of that enamel for the next round but there’s no going back from what I’ve done
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I wonder if SHFI works ok for off-road scenarios…
I should flip it on sometime to try
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If you have sensors, 1000% just use them if you’re planning on offroad. sHFI works decent from a standstill, but on steep hills they’re still hit or miss. Still a good backup option if your sensors have issues mid ride.
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I concur, I’ve been doing some perilous hill climbs with my board and sensors are 1000% necessary for getting up steep, loose terrain with ruts and rocks where you stall out a lot
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The lacroix I was riding/racing at esk8con has sHFI for the rear motors because I nuked the sensors off-roading pretty quick.
SHFI works 100% as good as sensors for off-roading. It’s a very impressive technology, if you have your settings correct.
Off-road is actually a better situation for sHFI than on road, because you can’t pull as many amps. High amps is where sHFI would potentially fail. Off-road you can’t pull as many amps because you’re limited by grip.
That said I never had any issues doing launches on my board at esk8con. Get your settings right, and the performance of sHFI would make you think you have sensors, if not for the annoying whine noise.
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How if you don’t mind me asking? I rely on my sensors a lot while off-roading and want to avoid blowing them up. Replacing them wouldn’t be a very fun job.
1 Like
I was riding a lot of loose gravel and stuff got kicked up into the motor cans. The sensors were dead within 100 miles. The front motors don’t get junk in the cans so those sensors are fine.
3 Likes