is the CTC longer or shorter for the 2.20s?
I would rather run 2.20 if I can.
The pinion is bigger so the CTC is longer, but only by about 2mm.
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Not sure where to put this, so will post here-
Recently acquired a set of BN adjustable plates 2nd hand but in new condition.
The 2 halves of each baseplate component do not sit flush with each other - it seems as if there is a manufacturing tolerance or other issue that causes the roadside piece to pivot on the single adjustment screw, instead of resting on the boardside piece. This causes the baseplates to wobble back and forth.
Has anyone else ever experienced this issue?
It has happened before. Easiest way to fix this is to drill out the hole on the pivoting piece ever so slightly bigger. Nominal size is 6.1mm. Something like 6.5mm would do the trick or 1/4" if youāre in the states.
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Perfect, will try that. Thanks for the response
How so?
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You have to shim the motors so the clip does not come off
Last time this happened the clip was still in place, these motors cannot be shimmed in a useful way they have a shoulder.
A load bearing bearing would fix the issue I think, but none that I found last time will fit.
Straight cut gears should solve this for me.
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Hi @Boardnamics - On the M1 geardrive, do we have any option for a non steel-steel gear? Like POM or other material?
Steel is all that is available; this is to keep the drive small. POM gears can work but they must be larger in size to compensate for the lower material strength. There is not room in the drives to put bigger plastic gears.
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I am not convinced the bearings I have seen used so far are up to that task.
I think straight cuts are the only way if you donāt expect to replace motors/c-clips.
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I had this problem and shimmed the motor shafts and never had an issue
Are the current M1 gears straight cut, or still helical? Planning to buy a pair of helicals.
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Which model, M1 or M1-AT?
As far as I know, M1 had always been straight cut with helical gear option. M1-AT used to be helical by default, now itās straight cut by default with helical for option.
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The best way to check anything BN related is to message Kevin - @Boardnamics
IIRC heās winding down the business and isnāt buying new stock.
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What the actual fuck Kevinā¦ This is ok with you is it? You felt thereās enough contact and meat in this? These fucking things are butchered and unsafe.
Thereās not even a drilled set screw hole ffsā¦ it wonāt even engage far enough to actually drill a hole to line up with the truck set screwā¦
Website said that when I ordered but received helical.
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In all honesty man I dont think he gives a fuck, he closed up shop a month or two ago. Sorry you are stuck with paperweights, you can tell he lost his enthusiasm for this hobby years ago but I wish customers werent punished for it.
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Fuck Kevin, heās a ##### with no morals
At the end of the day, Iāll drill these out, Iāll bog them up with kweld, Iāll make it work somehow but itās a dead set vile taste in my mouth.
The thing is, these were bought some time ago and Iāve just gotten round to the build so his shitty practices have been going on for some time.
Once moreā¦ fuck you @Boardnamics
They are certainly safe to use. If youāre that nervous, green or red loctite the wheel gear to it. Not one report of these failing on anybody.
The adapters do not need a set screw. This was a design choice made ages ago. A set screw pushes the drive out of alignment with the axle, and serves no purpose as the drive cannot fall off unless the wheel falls off.
If the fit is loose, til foil shims nicely. Nailing this fit is difficult as I only produce one of the parts. A different vendors part is out of my control.
It is up to the user to tighten the wheel nut hard to secure the unit as intended.
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