These could also be left round with a whole lot of hole sets so when one set wears out you can switch to the next set of holes.
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Interesting idea actually, but something about that wear looks accelerated by something. This never came up in testing.
It’s true that if it’s all set up properly, the force of the wheel should be largely taken by the bearings of the hub and not transferred to the drive
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The thing is for the screws to slide in they have to have a bit of play and the force from hard acceleration and breaking will torque back and forth, with enough miles and a heavy rider the softer material will tend to wear. How many miles does that set have? I see where it looks like at some point the screws slipped out and marked the adapters.
You mean here?
For me that looks like somebody tried to force the hub screws in a hole that doesn’t exist.
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omg thx for confirming looks like imma get getting lunas soon
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We worked with moon to standardize the profile and mounting points between our trucks and his. Assuming nothing has changed his end then parts designed for one should still be compatible with the other.
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looks to me like the screws eventually broke free and the one from the next hole round spun over and slammed into the side.
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That could be, but than the bolt was only half way screwed in in the very beginning? If no, the marks would be more deep I would assume.
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or the wheel just moved away a couple of mm once it was no longer bolted to the drive
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The bolts aren’t threaded into those holes, they are smaller diameter and just float.
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I think i may wrap the end of my bolts with tape to create a tighter fit after seeing this failure mode. @Boardnamics can you confirm or deny the existence of a V2 Wheel adapter?
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oh really? well then this kind of failure makes complete sense then
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I use blue loctite on mine
wait you sent him a pear already?
There will be a v2 adapter made of thin stainless steel.
The holes are drilled just under 4.0mm in diameter so there is not much slop. I still see this as an issue however and will be making a V2. I’ll also try drilling the holes with a drill bit 1 size smaller to see if that helps.
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The ideal way of coupling the wheel and drive would to have some sort of elastic component preventing force from the wheel from traveling through the whole drive. Maybe a 1mm thick rubber pad between the star and the drive so the star won’t wont be subject to wheel forces
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I assume you mean impact related forces?
Why not just use threaded holes?
That’s too difficult, there’s too much variance in the wheel
Trust me it would be a pain
Mby designing for that is the reason this failure happened. I’d imagine that if the “pins” can slam back and forth in the holes, that would really accelerate wear.