Remembered my old phone
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They ride really smooth. I have no comparison to real pneumies but I love these. I had some cogging in between on the rear drive but I think its because I did not remove enough enamel. I had to shorten the wires and used a file with that. Later I discovered the torch feature of my dremel gas soldering tool so the wires of the front drive seem to be ok. In this first ride I was very careful, here are the numbers:
On the track was a gap between asphalt which is really evil but even this one was no problem for the wheels 
Looking forward to testing them further
Settings were 25A/-10A battery and 45A/-45A motors per side of an ESC. Braking was strong but not too strong, apart from the cogging in the rear drive the motors also were strong, made it up the steep passage I tested with every drive so far without issues (even with the rear cogging)
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Weird that you only pushed -6A to the battery braking… wonder what kind of affect upping the negative battery settings might have.
Any idea how hot the motors got?
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You’ll have oppertunity soon for some real pnummies. 
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If you didn’t tell me I might have overlooked it I’m not sure if its normal or not. As far as I read this value is never really reached, thats why you could set it higher than your max charge rate. I expected it higher than -6 though I heard something that the battery min value is responsible for the high speed braking, the motor min is for low speed (which I only had). The drives where only handwarm but I only went for 2km.
@Mainflow Nice Looking forward to it. Mid January we’ll get a car so I’m more flexible for grouprides.
Btw, Steering was still a bit too soft for my liking, have to get harder bushings for the rear.
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Mhhh, it wasn’t the enamel coating 
Now I’ll try adding another capacitor as I did in the front since one of the caps on the makerX went loose (tried to fix it but it might have been not successful )
I really wonder why no error shows up in the logs…
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I reworked everything. I got rid of the velcro that held the battery packs, removed hte plastic cover from the xt150, resoldered to get the packs tighter together and glued it to the deck with some neutral cure silicone. I changed the cabling from 14awg to 10awg, added 80a fuses on power supply lines to each dual mini, used real connectors everywhere. I hope my stuttering problems are gone now, I’ll see tomorrow. I had a strange problem, one of the 0R resistors connecting both sides of the pcb over can was somehow damaged. It gave a 160 ohms reading. I fixed it by bridging with a small piece of wire
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What remote do you use? How do you pair it to your escs?
A Flipsky VX1 Pairing as described in the manual
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I got some things on my mind about this hole thread i cannot hold back hahaha.
Mellow hubs run on 7s originally (yours on 10s) if im right and you changed the wheel diameter by doing a great job on the sleeves which reduces torque(the diameter not the volts)which you found out for yourself bc. have you expected much more torque from them.
Wouldn´t it be more secure and much more effective and efficient to use 7s(maybe 7s10p or something) specially for mellow hubs to be sure the motors can go forever and can deliver the power in the way they are designed for? I dont think that torque is a weak point on mellow hubs specially NOT in a 4wd configuration. They must be powerful as hell imo!
I know you prefer the landwheel hubs anyways and now switched over to DD, but seriously as far as i know runs moo stooge his raceboards on 6 or 7s as well without any lack of torque(ok hes not on hubs,but…)
Dont know where i read it but the lower voltage of the 7s is not an issue and should be able to deliver the same power by right config of your amps or something like this(dont tread me on that, i just want to learn much more )
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Which davega model is that? 
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The Motorola spinoff, its secret since they fear you’ll sue them 
Its just for now, in the end I’ll put a e-ink in there.
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You’re right I think. 7s doesn’t necessarily mean less power, only less speed. The guy I got the mellows from was actually a mellow insider and he told me they run well on 10s and can do 40A continuous, 80A for a short time. I was not lucky running them that way, I found out that I could go 28A max, more than that and it had strange behaviour (stuttering etc.). If you take the calculatory maximum wattage at 7s/40A and project it on 10s you get 28A so it seems like thats some kind of limit.
I have no idea what your definition of good torque is but I need to climb hills, the mellows were not able to Of course the bigger sleeves made it worse than vanilla mellow sleeves If I ever get the chance to test drive an Onan I’ll tell you how my stuff compares to that
I might build something at 7s in the future with the mellows. I would have taken them for the inYoFace thing but the hubs are sitting on a special hanger which is essential for them and sadly RKP.
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Do you have the VX1 hooked up via uart? To control both dual vescs?
No, I prefer PPM since I don’t need reverse (which is the only additional feature). Both dual minis are connected with CAN
Could you post a pic of how you have the ppm hooked up? Do you connect both ppm cars in parralel and then to reciever?
I used two smaller silicone cables (26awg I think), thats all.
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Right that’s to connect the can. What I am confused about Is ppm cables that come out of each esc. Do you just use one of them? Or do you somehow have to use both of them?
No, you use only one of them, it doesn’t matter which one. In VESC Tool input setup you can just tell it to use a specific PPM port on any CAN client. (The chosen one will be the CAN master)
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